Long Distances/La Longue Route...

Rwanda in pictures

2010-06-10T06:32:00.000-07:00

Rwandans had to carry identity cards.This is one of them. This would pretty much decide on life and death

At the Belgian memorial:

Civil war-torn Democratic Republic of Congo

Some of the little kids at the orphanage and at the Gender-based violence centre

Thousand hills

This is Africa

2010-06-02T07:52:00.000-07:00

I'm back on the old continent, Europe.Back to fast internet connections, hot water, individualism...On the plane I had time to reflect on my time in Rwanda (and Ghana).Volunteering is really one of the best ways to know a country. Tourist and investors only stay a few days or a week. They see on part of Africa, its exterior coating. Sure safaris and gorillas are beautiful but you stay in the car and don't interact with the people or the continent. You only see the surface, not what is hidden. Africa is a little like Rwanda's hills: rich, enigmatic, noisy and silent, excessive, diverse.

Africa should certainly not be treated a single entity but I will do it a little bit here. African cultures are extremely different from European and American cultures. There isn't much in common yet this is what makes the continent so mysterious and interesting. Nothing really prepares you for Africa. In the West, Africa is the Other, a symbol of poverty, hunger, war, corruption, genocide. Yes, these things exist but Africa is so much more than that. Its people, landscapes, cultures made me fall in love with the continent.

But for that you need to mingle and interact with Africa and its people: talk to them, go to the market, visit their homes. Most people in the West are indifferent, if not hostile towards Africa.
Describing Africa is difficult. I found it difficult to find the right words because African landscapes, traditions and mentalities are so different and diverse. Africa is a thousand situations, varied, contradictory, distinct. A mosaic. The more you stare at it, the more you interact with it, the more you will discover. It will give rise to a spectacle of richness. Volunteering certainly allows you do that. you walk a lot, take public transports, go to the market and shop where Africans shop, you work with them everyday, you avoid fancy hotels and restaurants at all costs, they invite you to their homes, you share a meal, establish trust and therefore learn much more than tourists (and those Chinese investors on their cellphones, standing by the side of the road) do.

The best way to help African countries would be for politicians and policy makers to actually come here and see how things work. For example, Africans have a completely different relationships with time. Westerners live according to time, time exists outside them, they are like slaves. Africans take a completely different approach. Time is something created by man. Time is a result of our actions, we influence and shape it.
Another major difference I have noticed is the sense of community that exists here. Europeans and Americans are egocentric and individualistic. Here community is everything and being left alone is seen as the worst thing that could happen to an individual. Problems are solved collectively: crimes, thefts, car accidents, traffic jams. You will often see people standing by the side of the road because something has happened: everybody gets involved, everybody wants to know, they all talk to find a solution. These kind of talks and debates take place when it comes to solving conflicts as well, or if someone is sick or needs food or money. People will seek help from a neighbour or from the community. So I think that before we impose our views on African countries and model aid and development policies according to our way of life we need to know how things work here, how people lead their daily lives. The best solutions can be found by looking at how people lead their lives and interact with each other, and by asking those whom the policies are going to target. They have an opinion and they have solutions to offer as well, more than anybody even. I think they know better than anyone what is needed. But how often do policy makers ask for their opinions?
If I ever become a human rights monitor and policy maker I hope I will not forget what I've learned here.People have a lot to offer and we have a lot to learn from them. I hope the West stops being indifferent or to this Other, to Africa, and finally starts to see it something other than the "Dark continent." When you are on a safari in Kenya or Tanzania and see people on the road or sitting outside their clay huts, go out of your car and talk to them. They'll teach you a lot. Encounter Africa.

I already miss Kigali before night falls. The birds, the cool wind, the mist, the people going back to their hills, the smoking cooking fires, the laughing and singing children coming back from school, kicking self-made footballs or rolling old tires. Rwanda beautiful at sunrise and sunset. You cannot help but stop and watch.I'll be back some day.

Rwanda Rwanda.....

2010-05-31T03:12:00.000-07:00

Today is my last day.I've been running around trying to find souvenirs.It's difficult because there is a lot I wish I could take back...(including one or two orphans but I think that wouldn't be smart).
I have had a fantastic time here, a better time even than in Ghana.Rwanda is an amazingly beautiful country and so are the people.It's sad that Rwanda still has a bad reputation because I think more people should visit.It is hard to explain how great Rwanda is or what it looks like, especially to people who have never been to Africa.There is almost nothing here that looks like what we know or see everyday.Yet this is exactly what makes it so great.Change, depaysement.
On Friday, for my last work day, I organized a little party for the people I worked with.Lots of laughs and tears...and a water balloon fight as well!It lightens the mood...
Tonight, I'll go to the local bar one last time, have brochettes (kebabs.Typical bar food here) and Irish potatoes with African spices.One last Primus or Mutzig (the two beers you find in Rwanda.Not very good but good enough) and I'll be good to go...

Last blog from Rwanda....

Gacaca courts: "justice needed to be witnessed by the very people who experienced the lack thereof."

2010-05-27T03:22:00.000-07:00

Last Saturday, I walked by a large group of people. In the middle stood a man in pink facing the rest of the crowd: Gacaca courts.
Gacaca courts used to be traditional councils made up of elders to resolve conflicts. Literally, it means "a resting relaxing green lawn in the Rwandan homestead" (yes, all of that) where family members and neighbors met to exchange views and resolve conflicts.
It is a collectivist reconciliatory process that has been central to African justice for centuries.
Today, Gacacas continue to define society and are now being used to try genocide suspects.

Reconciliation is key. In kinyarwandan reconciliation is kwiyungo, meaning "to mend ourselves": it means that restorative justice should take precedence over punitive or retributive justice. Indeed, a dialogue takes place between all the parties involved: victims, judges, community and criminal.This type of dialogue is quite rare in traditional/typical trials and dialogue is meant to ensure that the offender understand the harm he has caused (this is quite optimistic in a way.I'm not sure they always understand their actions). The goal is to make amends and to make the offender personally accountable. To reach that goal, the accused must acknowledge the pain he has caused and ask for forgiveness (this idea is quite optimistic as well. family obviously have a hard time forgiving the offender)
Gacaca always take place in the communities in which the crime was committed. This is important since the International Criminal Court for Rwanda was based in Arusha, Tanzania, making it almost impossible for anyone to travel there. Victims and witnesses had to be brought there but families and the rest of the community could hardly attend trials. Rwandans felt that the tribunal had been sat up to please the international community who had failed to come to the help of Rwandans during the genocide.
This is one of the reasons why Gacaca courts are being used. there are other reasons as well: after the genocide, the country's infrastructure and law and order were in a state of collapse. Judicial institutions had ceased to exist and many judges had participated in the genocide, had fled to the Congo or, because they were Tutsis, had been killed. There was also an extremely large number of perpetrators: 818,564 suspected of having committed crimes of genocide. The process turned out to be extremely slow and tenuous. By 2000, 120,000 suspects were still cramped in prisons living in inhuman conditions (I have heard horror stories about prisoners having to stand all day, making their feet swell and hard like rock to the point that the prisoner could simply "take off" his toes. I know....disgusting). There was a need for speed. The new government therefore decided the merge two objectives: the rehabilitation of the fragile justice system and the organization of genocide trials the Rwandan way.
The courts have 4 objectives: bring the conflict into the open; involve the whole community; provide compensation; bring offenders back into the community. Truth, reconciliation and punishment are central. By coming forward the perpetrator would get "rewarded" with reduced sentences.
The accused persons were put into 4 categories (later 3):
1. those whose planned, organized, instigated, supervised, led the genocide and committed crimes.The first category of perpetrators were tried in Arusha at the International tribunal for Rwanda. These included\ Ministers, the Prime Minister, military officials, religious leaders.
2. those who committed homicide or attacks intended to cause death
3. those who participated in serious attacks which were not intended to cause death
4. property crimes

Gacaca are still taking place today. It is estimated that 1.5 million have been tried by now.By 2008, the courts had tried 1,127,706 cases. The process helped put the nature of the genocide into context while also considering the historical, political and cultural context of the society in transition. The state also showed that it was able and willing to act and wanted to work according international human rights standards. Whether the process has truly worked will have to been seen. I am sceptical about full reconciliation and believe that considering the amount of crimes committed and mass the violence that took place, people do not trust each other and certainly not neighbours (it was common during the genocide for someone to kill a neighbour even though they had lived side by side for years). I am scared that something will happen that will trigger new violence. We'll have to see.

Belgian Memorial pictures

Kigali at the bottom of the hills

2010-05-25T07:16:00.000-07:00

Jeannine's house

I visited one of my student's homes on Friday.She lives in one of the poorest part of the city, that is at the bottom of the hills (it's terrible when it rains because it gets really muddy and you always have risks of mudslides.Her house consists of one room divided in two by a curtain.On one side you have a mattress for her and her dad (her mother died a few years ago and her sister left the house and got married) and on the other side you have a wooden bunk where they eat and cook.That's it in terms of furniture.They hang their belongings on the wall (clothing etc) No kitchen whatsoever, no electricity, no windows.It's just dark and very stuffy.Jeannine is doing quite poorly at school and you kind understand the reasons when you the her study environment.
The house is situated at the bottom of one of Kigali's hills: and the place is like new world, separated from the rest of the city or what is up the hill.Own little world.It has a small market, a few bars, little shops, hairdressers, etc (nothing fancy, just barracks).To get to the city center you have to go up to hill (very steep) and take a bus.I think mostly people stay down there, except for the kids who go to school.It's a really strange place but people all know each other and greet each other.They have very little yet, as cheesy as it sounds, they have each pother and neighbors help neighbors.Also, there are A LOT of kids down there, which is quite disheartening because jobs are already lacking and I don't see it getting any better any time soon.Rwanda's population is already very large considering the country's size and it is still growing.
I hope her and her dad some groceries because it really seemed like they had absolutely nothing.
Most of the kids and women I work with live in that area.I'm visiting another on Thursday.

Belgian memorial

There's a small memorial for the 10 Belgian UN soldiers in Kigali.The memorial (old military barracks) is actually situated where they got killed so you can still see the bullet holes, grenades and even some blood.It's pretty grim, especially since I've seen the barracks in documentaries and movies.In "Shake hands with the Devil" you see the bodies of two Belgian peacekeepers on the floor.This is where it happened.The memorial was established with the help of the Belgian government and there's also a little museum attached to it.The families of the victims came not long ago and wrong some angry words against UN General Romeo Dallaire and Belgian Military Officer Marchal.. They hold them partly responsible for the death of the 10 soliders.While I understand their gries, I believe Dallaire and Marchal shouldn't be held accountable.Dallaire sent a telegram to the UN warning them about growing tensions and killings and asking for troopps but the Un refused.It was chaos over there and I thinkn he was trying his best considerting the situation.He was pretty much alone and I don't think he could have known his men would be killed.

On another note: I only have one week left!So much to do still.

Food fund

2010-05-21T02:23:00.000-07:00

In the past couple of weeks I have realized that some of the kids here seriously lack food.Two cases stand out:
Alphonse is currently living on his own with his disabled brother because his mother has HIV and TB and has therefore been at the hospital for three weeks.Kids here don't complain much so he hadn't told us he wasn't really getting any food.When we asked him where he got dinner he said him and his brother ask neighbours or beg for food but they quite often skip breakfast and lunch.
Then there is Oriva.When I first met her at the beginning of my volunteer project, she was a really happy kid but lately she has been feeling sad and sick.When I asked her why she said that when she comes home for lunch she often finds the door locked because her mother has gone off to work.Or if she can get in, there is nothing to eat (she is ten, so even if there's rice or pasta, she can't cook it).She is a bit of a neglected child, plus her mother has to work hard.
So basically I spent the past ten days buying groceries: pasta, rice, peanut butter, bread, a few fruits and vegetables.And three of the kids now stay for lunch instead of going home.
While this is easy while I'm here, I don't know what's going to happen once I'm gone.So another volunteer and myself decided to establish a food fund.What we would do is pay the supermarket in advance then if it turns out that the kids haven't had food, they can go to the shop with a coupon and get bread or other basic food in exchange.I hope it works out.While education is crucial, food is the most important thing for the moment.

I also found lots of pearls so the women I make baskets with could make jewelry for themselves and sell them at the market.They were really happy and were having a bit of a fashion show.They can be really creative.

So I'm still pretty busy (and using lunchbreak to write these blogs).I'm going to visit some of the kids families and homes tonight and next week.It should be fun even though they live in really poor neighborhoods.

Butare

2010-05-18T03:25:00.000-07:00

Another volunteer and I finally decided to go to the genocide memorial in Butare, in the South of the country, towards Burundi.A new technical college was built there just before the genocide and during the massacres, Hutu militia men and local representatives and church men told Tutsis to seek refuge at the college.At the time, Butare was largely populated by Tutsis and many refugees from other regions sought refuge there as well because the mayor was Tutsi before the killings began (he was later killed and replaced. Hutu militia men, interahamwe were then sent to the region).Tutsis hid there for two weeks, 50,000 of them before the interahamwe and local Hutus came to kill them.6 people survived. Those who tried to escape failed to so because the Technical college is surrounded by hills. Hutus would make sure the place was surrounded.Mass graves were then dug and people thrown in, some still alive (excuse the details). The French, Operation Turquoise, arrived a little later and stayed in the college barracks.The role of the French is widely debated and criticized: it has been proven that they helped the Hutus by providing weapons and by failing to help Tutsis.As they stayed at the college, they built a volley ball field...on the mass graves.

After the genocide, many of the victims were buried but survivors decided to establish a memorial there: they decided to preserve 800 bodies in lime and exhibit them.It's a very grtim memorial, very much in contrast with the surrounding peaceful landscape.Some rooms containm children, other women and men.Facial expressions, clothing or a wedding ring is what strucks you more and truly renders the bodies human (they look a little bit alike mummies). Coming out of the room containing children, it is both a relief and disturbing to see children playing outside in the surrounding fields.

I won't post any pictures of the memorial although I had to take a couple for an interview I will give when I get back to Canada.If you are interested, just email me.

Rwandan life stories

Almost daily you hear someone's account of the genocide.For example, the head of the organization I work for is a female doctor. She was already a doctor during the genocide. One days as she was working at the hospital, two wounded men arrived: an interahamwe and an RPF soldier (Tutsi).The interahamwe was badly wounded at the chest, the RPF soldier had been hit at the leg, but was in better shape. So she treated the interahamwe first.The RPF soldier got angry and wanted to have her arrested, if not killed.Thankfully the doctor knew high placed RPF people who managed to calm everyone down.But, still, she was almost killed.Even today, I believe some of her acquaintances have mixed emotions about her...But as a doctor, she still felt she had to do her job and treat the badly wounded patient first...no matter who he was and what he had done. I guess some doctors anywhere else in world find themselves in slightly similar situations when they have to treat rapists, killers etc first before other patients.
Both the RPF soldier and the interahamwe survived.

On a completely different subject, I'm craving salad, cheese and fresh vegetables.Rwandans eat: fries, red beans, plantain, rice, pasta, some veggies (cauliflower, carrots and tomatoes...and good avocados) and a little meat (goat, beef, chicken).Everything is cooked or fried.I know I need energy for the day but still...that's a lot of proteins and starch. I would love a good steak as well...not much meat on there chickens.

Women and the genocide: "Take your machetes and kill all the Tutsis."

2010-05-15T04:08:00.000-07:00

You always hear about how conflict affects women and children. It’s true. Men usually do the fighting while women and children suffer the consequences and bear the brunt of the conflict. When men die, women are left alone to head to household. Those who have been raped bear the mark. But I started to wonder if women had played a role during the genocide. I have never seen a picture of a woman holding a machete or standing next to bodies. I had never really heard of a woman standing on trial for genocide. Their murderous role has been put aside, often leading to impunity. Those who committed crimes exploited the image of innocence spread by the world. Yes, many women suffer during conflict, but some also play a role in the continuation of conflict.
I went to the genocide prevention centre and found some literature on the role of women during the genocide. Murderous campaigns against the Tutsis started in the early 1960s and women played an increasingly violent role. Many didn’t need encouragement (although some were indeed threatened, beaten and forced to kill). Some women were among the leaders. They established lists of Tutsis, they participated in attacks, incited hatred and genocide, denounced neighbors and even husbands, killed their husbands and kids, some even encouraged rape. They were teachers, school girls, nurses, doctors, nuns, local representatives, politicians, journalists (“The graves are not yet full. Fill them up” said one RTLM radio journalist). Local representatives and ministers played an active role: Rose Karushara distributed weapons and decided over life and death. Doctors and nurses refused to treat patients. Two ministers, including the Minister of family and Women’s Rights, heavily participated in the organization of the killing, including the elimination of political opponents. They personally kept an eye on some operations. Why did they do it? Extremism, power, money…
Some are in prison now. I have seen a few. Many fled to Tanzania, Congo, etc. Some still live in Kigali even.

First pictures...finally

2010-05-15T03:24:00.000-07:00

Work

Akagera National Park

Tanzania on the other side of the lake

Lake Kivu, on the Rwanda/Congo border: Mountains, volcanoes, birds and the UN

Nyamata memorial. Clothing on the floor (church)

Mass gravesMore soon!

Rwanda bits and pieces

2010-05-14T07:24:00.000-07:00

Motos: I'm addicted to them.They're basically like taxis.Here cabs are expensive so you either get a little bus, a moto or a bike. But motos are just fun.Are the guys always find it hilarious to drive white people around.

Bus: a lot of the drivers decorate their bus: Jay-z, Kanye, Bob Marley, Chris Brown (ew...although I've seen one that said douchebag), T-bag (I don't know who that is but bad choice of name), Eminem...

Football: Africa and Football (or soccer). They just go together.They can't wait for the world cup

Rwandan TV: hilariously bad tv shows.One is called "Banana saga" or story or something like that...very bad acting but almost fun to watch.

Music: Someone called Medhi is extremely famous here.That's all they sing.Not my cup of tea really but when I get back to Canada I'll probably want to listen to him just to remind me of Rwanda.

My Kinyarwadan is getting better and it's always a hit with people here.Hey, at least I'm trying.

Also, I'm establishing a little library here with all kinds of activity books and english books for kids, a few boxes have already been sent from England.But if you have children's books and would like to send some over, let me know. When I get back to Canada, I'll probably try to get as many books as I can and have them sent over.I know a few organizations collect books all the time.We got 13 boxes the other day and the kids (and adults) love it.
Or if you want to sponsor one of centre's children, simply let me know.We established a pdf file with all the information.

Whistle while you work

2010-05-12T03:22:00.000-07:00

Things are still great in Rwanda and I can't believe I only have 2 weeks left or so.
I'm very busy with work: sponsoring children, establishing a little library, organizing crafts and painting classes for the kids, teaching children, making baskets with the women and teach them some English, telling them and younger girls about gender-based violence and HIV, helping around at the organization's office...The days are full.I'm also planning on organizing a party/dinner for the kids and the women before I leave. Maybe even a football match if I can find a field.
I visited a woman the other who has HIV and currently has TB.She is extremely thin and stays at the hospital so her kids stay at home all day all by themselves (they can't afford the school fees and the father left). They are extremely poor.I don't think I've actually ever seen such poverty.They basically live in a one bedroom shack. There is only one bed, no kitchen or table.They live next to a polluted pond so it is not the greatest environment for someone who has HIV (malaria and all kinds of diseases).One of the boys now comes here everyday and has lunch here so we keep an eye on him and make sure he gets food.

Working with the women is fantastic: they are single mothers or have HIV (often as a result of the genocide) or come from poor broken homes with abusive husbands so it's really nice to spend time with them.They still remain positive about everything which is quite inspiring.
This weekend, another volunteer and me are planning to visit a memorial in Butare, southern Rwanda. Apparently it's pretty grim as the bodies have been preserved.I also found several genocide/conflict prevention centres around Kigali. They have great libraries and offer free lectures so I go there when I have some free time.

So this is basically what I do during the week.Lots of work but absolutely rewarding.

Rwanda's Education System

2010-05-08T02:46:00.000-07:00

Because I teach kids and help them with their homework quite often here, I have had a pretty good taste of the Rwandan educational system. Education in a country like Rwanda seems even more important than anywhere else: good education is probably a good way out of the circle of revenge, intolerance and propaganda, reason instead violence, hopefully a way to escape poverty. But the educational system here is still rather messy. While French used to be the official language a few years ago, the government has now switched to English. For kids under the age of 10 or so this is much easier than for older kids who first grew up in French and Kinyarwandan. Everything is taught in English in schools but most people’s English is limited (even teachers’ sometimes). So, kids barely know basic English (such as the name of colors or English grammar) yet get taught science, math, social studies in English. Most of the children have no idea what the teacher is talking about. So they just copy down notes from the board and learn them by heart then regurgitate them. They don’t know how to explain concepts in their own words and often, because they don’t understand what they are writing, they make a lot of mistakes and so also learn mistakes. Often they have missing notes because the teachers go too fast. There isn’t a lot of interaction between teachers and students, not a lot of place left for imagination or interactive learning. They learn what they are taught and that’s it. Now when you know how well propaganda worked during the genocide because most people failed to question what the government and radio propagandists said, you wish kids would learn a little differently.

Another problem: fees. Every child has to pay school fees, even if they’re poor. This means that a lot of kids cannot afford to go to school. I have already paid a couple of school fees for kids (it's not very expoensiver...well from our point of view) because I just find it unbelievable that certain kids get sent back home because they haven’t paid their fees. A lot of kids here REALLY want to learn. You see it when you sit down with them. They do their best to understand. So...yeah...some changes need to be made in the educational system.

I've tried to upload pictures...failed miserably.The connection is too slow.I'll try from another internet cafe. Sorry about that

Religion and the Rwandan genocide

2010-05-02T06:51:00.000-07:00

On Sundays, Rwandans go to church and you hear chants all day. Now, every African nation is very religious and Rwanda is no exception.Yet, it is a little strange for a nation who experienced genocide and if you know the role of religious leaders in the genocide.

Consider this: in Nyarubuye when Tutsis asked the "Hutu Power" mayor how they might escape their killers, he suggested that they hide at the church. They did as told and three days later the mayor and some Hutu militia men came to kill them. In Mugonero, people did the same thing. But this time a pastor actually helped the perpetrators. Eight Tutsi religious representatives hiding in a complex sent a letter to Hutu Seventh-day Adventist Church pastor Ntakirurimana saying: "We wish to inform you that we have heard that tomorrow we will be killed with our families." The pastor replied: "Your problem has already found a solution. God no longer wants you. You must die." The next day, this is exactly what happened. He transported to attackers himself.

Examples abound: When there are problems in Rwanda, people always go to church as they trust that nothing is going to happen there. Many did this but were killed there. Quite a large number of pastors are said to have worked closely with the Hutu militia in organizing the slkaughter of Rwandans. One religious leader even had their own church bulldozed to kill everyone inside.

There are exceptions.2000 Tutsis found refuge in St Famille church in Kigali and were saved by a priest who stood up against the pastor's will.Yet it is disconcerting to see the role of religious leaders in general.Instead of places of refuge and peace, churches became mass killing grounds.
The other day, I went to a memorial in a church and when you get out and see people coming out of another church after service you cannot help but wonder how people can still believe in God and religion.As a non-religious person, it's very hard for me to understand.

Pastor Ntakirurimana fled to Zaire and then to the US where he got a green card and lived with his son and his family for a few years.He was later arrested and became the first clergymen to be convicted for his role during the Rwandan genocide. He was sentenced to 10 years of imprisonment and died shortly after being released. His son Dr. Gerard was also involved.

Safari virgin, nine muzungus on motos and less encouraging news

2010-04-28T07:26:00.000-07:00

New week!
But first, the weekend: On Saturday, we woke up very early (3 am) to go to Akagera National Park, on the Tanzanian border.It was absolutely stunning and, as a Safari virgin, I'm really happy with all the animals we managed to see: impalas, crocodiles, giraffes, hippos, warthogs, gazelles, all kinds of birds, zebras, buffalos...The lion and elephant populations shrunk dramatically during the civil war (poaching etc) so it is hard to spot them.The park guide was very helpful and explained that most people who work in Akagera are security personel because poachers still roam around.I think there are only 10 lions left if not less.However, I'm really happy with what I saw.I'll try to post pictures soon.You get an amazing view of Lake Hema, which serves as border between Rwanda and Tanzania.
On Sunday night, all the volunteers had a dinner at this amazing Ethiopian restaurant in the middle of nowehere (it's still Kigali but it weas pretty dark).Basically what you do is order a bunch of things and share.Then you get three giant crepes as well as small ones and a bunch of vegetables (lentils, corn, gabbage,...), sauces (spicy and non-spicy), meat (beef and goat), etc and you just eat with you fingers. It's absolutely delicious and a must-try if you have a good Ethiopian restaurant in your area.Also, getting to the restaurant was quite an adventure.You can use three kinds of transportation here: taxis (mini-buses), cabs (expensive) and motos.Motos are great if you get out of the main roads (plus they are heaps of fun).So imagine 9 muzungus (white people) at the back of 9 motorcycles.I think we provided enough entertainment and dinner conversations for the week.Quite a sight.

Work is going very well.I'm busy all day long so I'm knackered at night but that fine cause I have to wake up around 5.30-6 am anyways.Days start early here because it can get pretty hot during the day (although it is the rainy season).Giving class and doing homework with the kids be challenging: the other day I had to explain Rwandan Pre-history...I know African history but not that well and it's certainly difficult to translate it in Kinyarwandan.

Me and another volunteer found a couple of fair trade shops (craft shops and excellent Rwandan coffee!) around the city and they make quite amazing things (including Christmas stockings made with Rwandan fabrics.I need one of those).Some of these are owned and managed by HIV positive women.The money then goes to struggling families and patients.The HIV epidemic here is feminized since a lot of women were raped during the genocide. The government has done quite a lot to improve access to treatment: free ARV, counseling, testing etc...but access to clinics and treatment in rural areas is still very difficult. And while ARVs are free, bills for other infections and diseases must partly be covered by the patient (10%). Moreover, the stigma is still very much present as well.I know many HIV positive patients not want to reveal their status to their boss for fear of losing their job.

In other news, I heard today that Paul Kagame's political rival was arrested yesterday and later released.Elections will take place in August so this is not a good sign.Despite the fact that Kagame likes to claim that his government is democratic, things like this prove that this is not actually the case.I hope the election will be as democratic as possible.It's difficult to talk politics here...it's a very sensitive subject.I think on the hand, people are grateful for what Kagame did yet I think that they are also aware that there are problems with his leadership.

Daily life and "Single Ladies"

2010-04-23T04:51:00.000-07:00

Let me tell you about work here.Well, I'm pretty busy.Most mornings, I give class to children who have lost one of their parents or whose parents are poor therefore making family life not exactly enjoyable.Some have also lost both parents and live with friends and relatives.I try to teach them English...Try...it's hard as some of them above the age of 10 have only recently started school as they afford the school fees (cheap for us but not for them) when they were younger.Now most of them are sponsored by people abroad.
Around 11 am, I help women make these really nice baskets, which they sell at the market.I try to teach them some English, especially numbers and basic maths so they can try and establish a business.They are all single mothers who have lost their husbands (particularly during the genocide) or who suffer from gender-based violence or inequities. I was a little skeptical at first but then yesterday, a woman who started here now has her own business and does really well.It's nice to see it works.I know some women in Gisenyi (near the Congo) make dolls, necklaces etc and I plan to visit them.We also have a nice and comfy counseling room here where people can come talk about their problems (there quite a lot of trauma centers around the city).Claire is really good at that so she sits down with them and tries to help.
Around 2 pm, I entertain some 20 children of all ages.They all need affection and time as their family life is quite hard.They gladly ask for a hug or for you to read them a book.Anything makes them happy as long as you pay attention to them.I usually finish around 5 and walk home (which is always nice as Kigali is beautiful and people always greet you just because you're white...or Muzungu as they say).
I'm also working on HIV and Gender-based violence presentations, which is quite hard cause you have to make it simple for them to understand.It's for older children, so their English is better but nonetheless. You have to make it simple and interesting.

The kids here are hilarious: they know the words to Beyonce's "Single Ladies" but cannot necessarily write very well or make long sentences. They started singing it the other day and just found it hilarious. I think it should be ob youtube.They are obsessed with Shakira, Kanye, Chris Brown and the likes.Even adults. Some even paint their trucks after some singer or band. but don't ask who the Beatles or U2 are...they have no idea.Go figure...oh and they know "Mr Bombastic" and Jay-Z "99 problems"...yes, inappropriate for a child but I doubt they understand.

As I explained in my previous blog, the genocide is very much present. People don't easily talk about it but they will mention it.I was walking with a girl my age the other and she showed me where she had hidden after her parents was killed.People move on but somehow it's forever present as well.There are a lot of NGOs cars and UN buildings (Unicef, World Food Programme, Development,...), you also often see military trucks (elections will take place in August so security is needed). You can sometimes see prisoners (perpetrators of the genocide): they use them to build roads and buildings.You can recognize them by their red (convicted) or pink (not yet convicted) attire.

A few volunteers who were here at the beginning of April went to see President Paul Kagame speak on 7 April (at the stadium) and said it was quite a strange experience.Rwandans are not very private so they openly show their pain and emotions.Apparently, it was not rare to hear people wailing and crying.Claire, who takes care of us here, lost her father and other family members and always tears up when she talks about the genocide but she will gladly explain everything about it and what she has been through. She even has some friends in Montreal so I hope I can meet up with them when I get back. During the week of April 7, nothing but church music can be played and on the 7th, all shops and bars are closed.I think it's quite amazing how far Rwandans have come.Everybody here must now consider themselves as Rwandan, not Hutu or Tutsi.They all work together and live side by side and things seem to work that way. I hope it will continue like this. You never know what might happen, right?

This Saturday, we're going to Akagera, a national park near the Ugandan border.I'm quite excited since I've never been on a Safari!!LIONS!

Muraho!

2010-04-20T08:34:00.000-07:00

Finally some news!I have arrived well and loving Rwanda!It is an amazingly beautiful country.Very green and inbdeed the land of a thoudand hills. Kigali itself is beautiful.It's very clean, green and full of flowers as a\every roundabout is carefully decorated.I think the government it's trying it's best to make people happy by making sure their physical environment is peaceful and beautiful.Kigali is not very big and not too complicated to understand...at least in comparison to Accra.

I've already been to a couple of genocide memorials.They are very gri9m and emotional.The one in Kigali is rather big and gives a lot of information about the genocide, its roots and consequences.I also visited one in Nyamata, a church where 10,000 people were killed in one day.The clothes of the victims were placed on the ground and the mass graves at the back of the church can be visited...grim indeed.Skulls and bones are lined up in rows.
April is Genocide month so you can see signs of the victims being remembered.I saw a few ceremonies and it is not rare to see men and women break down in tears.
There are signs of the genocide everywhere: memorials, cemeteries, courts, international commissions,the UN, Red Cross, USAID, loads of NGOs...

This weekend me and some volunteers went to Lake Kivu, which is on the border of the Congo, where the conflict is still raging.We saw refugee camps on the way there as well as a few UN and Red Cross trucks.We walked to the border then went back.Lake Kivu is beautiful so it's strange to look at the other side of the lake and think that war is going on there.It was a fantastic weekend: beautiful hills, birds, etc

Work is very good as well.I do different things every day: helping single mothers make baskets and establish a business, helping children from poor families, teaching about gender-based violence and HIV/AIDS...I'm very busy but really enjoying it

I have a lot more to tell and hope I can post pictures at some point.Internet doesn't seem too slow....

Leaving....

2010-04-12T12:17:00.000-07:00

I'm leaving for Rwanda tomorrow morning.I'll keep you posted.I'm excited!

2010-04-11T09:31:00.001-07:00

Rwanda: D-2

News news news

2010-03-24T06:42:00.000-07:00

I've seen quite a number of movies and documentaries about Rwanda, but last night I finally managed to watch Sometimes in April.Along with Un Dimanche à Kigali, believe it's one of the best, a mixture of documentary and "fiction."

Trailer

You can watch it the movie online by the way.It's sometimes tough to watch obviously but the film puts an emphasis on the role of radio in inciting genocide, which I think is important to mention.

In other news, I watched a small CNN documentary on the DRC the other, which I thought was pretty good.It's nice that a big channel finally talks about the issue.I'm not sure a lot of people watched but it's an important step.I'm always a little skeptical about celebrities getting involved in these issues, in this case Ben Affleck, but I guess at least more people will listen.

CNN

Stop conflict rape

2010-03-21T09:20:00.000-07:00

I discovered these websites not too long ago.As you know in Rwanda, I will work with an organization who help women who were raped during the genocide or families affected by conflict rape.I also have done and still do a lot of research on the use of rape as a weapon of war in the Democratic Republic of Congo.Very little is done to prevent rape or conflict in the DRC.There is a lack of peacekeepers on the ground.I believe Kosovo , a very small country compared to the DRC, had approximately 50,000 while Zimbabwe has 18,000.A lot of research has been done on the DRC.It is extremely complex and violent but few people outside the field of politics, human rights or development know what is going on so I just wanted to show you these websites.You can even send a picture of you doing the 'cross sign.' I'm not saying this is gonna change a lot but it's a start.They have links to a bunch of advocacy and NGO websites.

http://www.stoprapenow.org/

http://www.saynotoviolence.org/join-say-no/get-cross-200000-show-solidarity-end-conflict-rape

This was drawn by a Sudanese child

Source: "Darfur Drawn: The Conflict in Darfur Through Children's Eyes" http://www.hrw.org/legacy/photos/2005/darfur/drawings/12.htm

Human Rights Film Festival

2010-03-15T05:18:00.001-07:00

For those of you living in London, the Human Rights Film Festival starts in 2 days:

http://www.hrw.org/en/iff/london

"Women's Rights are Human Rights'"

2010-03-08T06:30:00.000-08:00

It's not really a time to party considering there is a lot to improve in terms of women's rights and status but it is an important day. The first IWD took place in 1911. International Women's Day (IWD) highlights women's economic, political and social achievements.During the month of March organisations and government choose a theme that reflect global and local gender issues. For example. the UN's theme this year is "Equal Rights, Equal Opportunities and Progress for All."

Remarks by Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon (UNHQ) - Click here to read
"International Women's Day is the story of ordinary women as makers of history; it is rooted in the centuries-old struggle of women to participate in society on an equal footing with men."
Video

And:
Hillary Clinton's message: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0aHOxr5wx8

"Women’s empowerment lifts obstacles to achieving development goals, Ban says"

International Women's Day website

I also found this one interesting: "UNICEF event focuses on involving boys and men in the promotion of gender equality"

Rwandan Visa

2010-03-05T13:32:00.000-08:00

I got my Rwandan visa this week.That was quick.I guess they don't have a lot of demands....

Cities!

2010-02-23T19:41:00.001-08:00

Ghana's main big cities

Kumasi

This is probably Western Africa's biggest market.It's huge, VERY busy and you will get lost.But that's part of the fun. You can buy everything here: fabric, food, pig feet and mutton head, art, shoes...everything is somewhat organized...somewhat.But obviously there is no map so you just get lost but then suddenly you'll be out again.

Accra

Few people like Accra, tourists and Ghanaians alike. It's the capital so it's big, noisy, dirty...But somehow I really liked it.I had to go there almost every day to go to work and somehow I liked it even tough it is noisy and dirty.It's part of the atmosphere.Even the traffic.The village I lived at was 40 km away but it would take at least 2 hours to reach Accra

Independence Square. this is where Kwame Nkrumah declared Ghana's independence

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial. This is also where he and his wife are buried.

Cape Coast

It was founded in the 15th century. As you know this where all the slaves got shipped to the Americas so throughout the 18th century Cape Coast's economy was dominated by its role at the heart of the trans-Atlantic slave trade. Hundreds of captured individuals every day sat in the dungeons awaiting shipment.

You really see the Western/Victorian/colonial influence here in terms of architecture. You have quite a large range of architectural styles. Yes, there even is a bridge named "London bridge"...it's not really a bridge actually.It's a poor city and quite a few of the colonial houses are run down but it's beautiful nonetheless. The castles are rather well-preserved as well.The atmosphere is very special because although it's an old town and an important cultural and historical centre it's rather small and you get a real sense of community here.Centuries ago it used to be a small fishing village and somehow you still get that feel.

Nature...

2010-02-12T17:34:00.000-08:00

You know, when you work in hospitals during the week, it's nice to get away on the weekend, just to relax. Also, traveling allowed me to eat some Western food. I love African dishes but sometimes you just want a burger...or a salad (good luck finding lettuce at the market).Weekends meant traveling, beaches, reserves, baboons,...

Oh and today symbolizes the start of the Winter Olympics....Ghana has one athlete (ski)...Go Ghana!

Liberian Refugee Camp

2010-02-09T17:35:00.000-08:00

The two Liberian civil wars forced a lot of people to flee their country. Many Liberian refugees can be found in Ghana, not far away from Accra.The Buduburam refugee camp is huge and has a population of approximately 40,000 people.Because some refugees have been there for almost 30 years, actual small shacks have been built, so people don't live in tents. There is a school and a small football field.
In the 1980s, Liberia was headed by Samuel K. Doe. The first Liberian war started in 1989, when arbitrary rule (Doe suspended the constitution and formed an authoritarian regime called People's Redemption Council.) and economic collapse culminated in a rebellion against Doe. National Patriotic Front of Liberia militia, led by Charles Taylor's, overran much of the countryside and entered the capital in 1990. Doe was executed, leading to a civil war. The rebels split into several groups and started fighting each other. A peace treaty was signed in 1995 and Taylor was elected president. However, a second civil war started in 1999 when renewed anti-government fighting started in the north. In 2003, Taylor eventually stepped down.

UN peacekeepers moved into Liberia in 2003 to help implement a peace deal and make the country secure both for civilians and for a transitional government. However, the years of civil war left the country in ruin.
Taylor has been indicted for crimes against humanity in Sierra Leone, where he allegedly aided rebels who murdered civilians.

Around 250,000 people were killed and many thousands more fled. As of 2004, at least 200,000 Liberian refugees were living in surrounding countries. An estimated 15,000 children fought in Liberia's civil war.
In Ghana, many refugees cannot find work so many opened small businesses in the camp. But a lot of them are unemployed. They get help from relatives living abroad, including the US and Canada. Most Ghanaians have accepted the Liberian community but finding a job is difficult nonetheless. Some NGOs also teach the refugees new skills and organize workshops in an attempt to improve people's chances. Some kids can also get scholarships.
As I already told you, some of the refugees told me their stories. A midwife at the Maternity Clinic saw her husband being killed and her son, then a toddler, was heavily burnt when a soldier threw boiling water on him. Others had to leave parents behind and now live in the camp without knowing if their relatives are still alive. Some of them would like to return home but with Liberia's economy in ruin they're almost better off here. Some even tried to go back but were forced to return to Ghana when they realized that life in Liberia was too difficult. Some refugees were victims of renewed violence once they returned to Liberia. At the camp offers some kind of security. More over, some got married and have kids in Ghana.

UNHCR headquarters and cars:

HIV/AIDS is quite an important problem in the camp. Conflict always renders refugees more vulnerable to HIV transmission. The UN High Commission for Refugees, which set up the camp in 1989, is heavily present. Confidential testing is available on the ground and is heavily encouraged. There are counselors on the ground, including Liberian counselors. However, stigma is fierce so counselors try to raise awareness in schools and churches. One of the main problems is that HIV tests are expensive and cannot be done in the settlement. Moreover, running water and electricity are not available, even at the settlement clinics. Poor sanitation, malaria, malnutrition only make the situation worse.

Workplaces

2010-02-07T18:37:00.000-08:00

The Malnutrition war and Rehabilitation Center at the Children's Hospital:

Here are "after/before" pictures that the staff put up on the wall. The "before" pictures are pretty sad but then you see them a few weeks later and it's very hopeful. Only kids with HIV have no chances of getting better.
I saw this little girl while I was there and now she is tall and chubby. It's great to see.

Here they try to tell parents about a child's nutritional needs: soja beans, fish, vegetables etc. They make sure the parents can afford it.

Here is the kitchen at the Rehab center where the nurses supervise mothers
Mayme and her mother. A few weeks ago she was still pretty skinny buth the rehabilitation center is amazing. Currently, they staff is trying to get a car so they can pick up young patients and their parents who cannot afford transport to the hospital

Margo Maternity Home and Clinic, a rural hospital in Krodua. Again poverty was very visible as mothers were saddened at the idea of having another child when they already had three or more. Self-induced abortions were not rare.
This is the OP, where they first admit patients. For example, pregnancy tests are taken outside then patients go to the consulting room. Chickens and cats roam around. There is also a labor room and a laboratory where blood tests are taken.

The nurses

Connie's Clinic and Maternity Home. A lot of anaemia cases, leading to high maternal death rates. But the head midwife there was amazing. She was really trying to convince mothers to get tested for HIV. She also tried to explain to women that family planning is not dangerous. She tries to tell them about the consequences of big families when money is scarce.

Latifah

Labor room. Very basic.

Me and the staff

Trying to reduce child mortality levels by encouraging immunisation. You can also see family planning and safe-sex posters.

First pictures: the green house and the kids (well some of them)

2010-02-05T15:13:00.000-08:00

We named it the Green House. It was so green you could see it from far away

The showers and bathrooms. I told you there was no running water. But bucket showers are fun. Plus it's so hot. Taking a shower outside it's actually a nice change...at least for a few weeks. It seems basic but for most people here it's pretty luxurious

The kitchen, on the right.

Here are some of the kids who lived there or came to visit us all the time so we could play. We spent hours every night playing with them. When you spend the day at the hospitals, it's nice to see healthy kids when you get back home. They were really great great kids. They have no tv or video games so they spend the day outside inventing games. They're so funny.

The girls in their school uniforms. They love when you run after them. It just makes them laugh. Easy.

Simple games. They talked and talked and talked.

Keizia discovered my ipod.The only they wanted to listen to Michael Jackson...I tried Radiohead but they didn't like that...They know Rihanna but not the Beatles.Someone

Going to church: Rachel, Keizia and Obert. Yes, the suit is a little too big.

Priscilla laughs like a squirrel

Some of the orphans from the orphanage next door would come over to play as well. We bought a football so they would play all the time

Back Home...

2010-02-04T17:34:00.000-08:00

I'm back from Ghana.I'm absolutely exhausted but pictures will follow soon.It's strange to be back.Some things seem trivial now, life seems too materialistic here.
Here nobody says hello on the street, everything is quite and structured, people are individualistic...it's a little puzzling at first.
I'm sure it will be okay in a few days though and I'll get back to my nice little Western life.
Also, when I left Ghana, there were 35C...here it's -20C.Haha.I have to get used to it.

Ghanaian crazes

2010-02-01T02:39:00.000-08:00

For my last blog from Ghana I wanted to talk about some things Ghanaians are crazy about

Phones: If you come here, you're first taken aback by the poverty. People live in small shacks or small two bedroom homes. Yet EVERYBODY has a phone. At least everybody over the age of 15.Phones can be bought everywhere. Here you just buy a chip put it in the phone then you buy minutes. Those little stands are absolutely everywhere. In cities at least 2 meters. People on the road sell them. Everybody wants your phone number. It’s so strange in a way. Money spent on phones could be used for something else, especially food and school.

Facebook: Very few people have computers at home but they all know facebook. Whenever you go to an internet café you can be sure that half of the room will be on facebook. Because I’m a foreigner they obviously want to add me as their friend...

Football: The African Football (or Soccer for the American readers here) Cup is currently taking place. Ghana actually did pretty well. Better than in previous years so Ghanaians were very excited and proud. Most people don’t own a TV so people go to each others houses or to the bar. They watch TV from the outside so every time Ghana would score a goal you would hear a roar. Cars honking, people running in the streets. Men, women, kids…They are very proud of their team. Yesterday, Ghana arrived pretty far and was playing against Egypt. A lot of Ghanaians were sporting Ghana t-shirts, headbands and flags. It’s great to see. Life is not easy here. Not many people are proud of their politicians or current situation. They are proud of the people who fought for independence, are proud to have gained independence before other African nations but these things are difficult so football makes them happy.

Obama: Obama is still in his honeymoon period here. You can find the usual Obama t-shirts, posters, paintings etc but I’ve seen Obama jeans, Obama schools, Obama clocks, and everybody here loves the Obama cookies (when I get back, I’ll show you what they look like). Here, like for many Black people in the US, Obama represents hope. If one Black man can become president of the United States then no kid here can say things are impossible or that he can't fulfill his dreams. Obama like Mandela are symbols of hope for many kids.Even a 4 year old knows who he is.

Religion: Religion is always present. Church takes place in the open or inside but with all windows open. There are church services every day, especially at night during the week and then on Sunday mornings. Priests hop onto tro-tros and buses to pray for us or have a little service. Then everybody prays that we arrive to our destination alive (seeing how people drive here, I understand them)

Also, music is central in Ghana. But only rnb, gospel and hip hop. They know Rihanna and Jay-Z but have no clue who the Beatles are. Go figure.

On Ghanaian women

2010-01-29T05:49:00.000-08:00

Today was my last work day.I said goodbye to everyone and went around the hospitals and clinic I worked at during the past few weeks.It has been such a fantastic experience.I learned more in one month than in a few months of school.Coming here was the best thing I could do.

During the past few weeks I observed how life works here.Working in hospitals and maternity clinic and therefore being surrounded by women made me realize how much they work here.Much more than most men.They are basically responsible for everything: children, food, housework, work, taking care of the husband, cooking.....They often wake up around 4.30 or 5 am and don't go to bed until late.They are everywhere: at the market, on the road selling products or carrying water and other loads.Meanwhile most men can be seen sitting under a tree sleeping, hanging around or playing cards.Not all of them but many.
Women (and even some men) here are very much aware of the situation.Every time you talk to them they will tell you men are lazy.Women carry all the burden but men control the money.A pregnant woman at the clinic has anaemia and a very high blood pressure as a result of all the pressure put on her everyday as well as lack of proper food.In order to know her blood type lab tests must be made.Yet the husband won't give her money although.He spends money on baby clothe for the future child but won't make sure his wife or the baby are alright.
Gender-violence is also exists.Poverty leads several men to abuse their wives.Many men do not have jobs while women can more easily be traders at the market.Because men are desperate for money and job they turn against women.
Several husbands also work far away and only come back on the weekends.Sometimes this means that some of them also have a second family or girlfriend at their work place...which can increase the risk of HIV.
Not all men are like that here, but women do suffer a lot.The health risks are numerous.Today I saw a list of all the major cases women's clinics receive: besides minor diseases anemia, typhoid, abdominal pains, STDs, HIV and respiratory problems are the most common.Teenage pregnancy are also common as young women whose parents are poor find a boyfriend who will take of her.But many of the men are exactly looking for a wife yet and certainly do not want a child.
I heard so many stories....Women here are very much aware of the rights they have but do not enjoy.I admire them very much.

In a happier subject, his weekend I'm going to the Shai Hills and Aburi, in the Central Region.Monday: time to pack as I'm leaving on Tuesday morning....

2010-01-26T06:40:00.000-08:00

The trip to Cape Coast was amazing.It's nice to get out of the city.On Saturday we went to the rain forest.We walked on a canopy walk through the trees.Kind of scary. Then we went to beach where we had a bonfire and the next visited Cape Coast castle, which is where all the slaves were sent from.Obama made a speech here when he visited Ghana last year. There are posters of him and Ghanaian President Atta Mills all around the city.They love him over here.

This week I'll be visiting different hospitals and health projects. Yesterday and today I worked at a maternity and women's clinic which receives a lot of malaria, anaemia and HIV cases.They also try to push family planning, which Ghanaians are often very suspicious of.They believe it will harm them.Yet having 34 or more children often means that not all of them will receive education or they won't get enough food.

It's a small rural clinic yet they are very good at what they do and they have very straightforward views on what is good for the local community and for families.HIV tests can be done on the ground and HIV pre- and post- counseling is available as well.HIV-positive patients are then referred to bigger hospitals in Accra where they can get proper treatment.The midwives here try to encourage women to take the HIV test to make sure the child is going to be healthy.The head nurse also tries to go around the community to tell them about HIV risks as well as the need for family planning.She really tries her best because she knows the consequences.

As I already told you last week, working in hospitals is one of the best and saddest way to experience the poverty here in Ghana.yesterday I young pregnant women was rushed to the hospital with anaemia.She needs blood in order for her and the baby to be healthy yet she can't afford to buy blood.Maternal deaths can be frequent here so I hope someone will find a solution.
The clinic also often experiences power cuts.When this happens at night, they have to work by candlelight or car is driven is front of the window so the headlights can be used.It sounds pretty crazy but it's all they have right now.Everybody here tells me that poverty is getting worse.Doctors experience it every day as patience cannot pay for treatment.What also sometimes happens is that pregnant women cannot afford transport to the clinic.However, the community here has organized a taxi system that brings pregnant women to the hospitals.

Africa through hospitals

2010-01-22T05:26:00.000-08:00

Working at hospitals is one of the best ways to learn about some of the country's and the continent's problems.You see everything about malnutrition, poverty, HIV/AIDS, self-abortions, refugees etc..Doctors and patients take the time to talk about Ghana's problems or what they see everyday.Poverty and HIV seem to be the biggest problems and seem to be at the root of a lot of other issues.All week I experienced women being disappointed when they were told they were pregnant.Very few people also know about their HIV status and when you ask them about it they look a little taken aback if not appalled by the question.But then I saw several HIV tests being done here (it is encouraged if the woman is pregnant) and one turned out to be positive.Then comes the huge problem of what to do with the baby since mother-to-child transmission is possible.At the malnutrition ward last week, 2 year-old Lucy was infected through mother-child transmission.

Hospitals have little money, especially rural clinics.Today, one of the nurses had to take stitches
out but didn't have enough light.Because she didn't have anything else, she simply took her cellphone out and asked the patient to hold it and simply used the phone's light.Somehow it was both funny and sad.They also safe everything they can.Not needles obviously but band aid etc.

Today I met I Liberian refugee who is now a midwife at the maternity clinic.She earns very little.Her husband was killed during the war so she and her children fled to Ghana.She told me she was making dinner when the soldiers attacked her family.They killed the husband and threw
boiling water on her 1 year old son.He survived but is obviously badly scarred.Now she has a job here but still the money is barely enough (50 Ghana Cedis, which pays for rent and some food, though hardly if you have children.Rent is usually 30 Cedis for a 2 room shack.Transport can be expensive for them and few people can afford a car).All the Liberian refugees here are trying to get to North America and Europe.One of the nurses actually presented me to her son and she really wants me to be his wife.

You also learn about beliefs and traditions, including witchcraft (which quite a few people still belief in. I've seen a couple of so-called witch catchers).Religion plays a HUGE role here.Every morning, when hospitals open, all patients and staff pray together.At least three times a week, there is a church service on the main square.People dance and sing until 10 pm.It is frowned upon not to go to church on Sundays.

This weekend I'm going to Cape Coast and Kankum National Park.It's always nice to get out.Work is fantastic but it's not always easy.I also can't believe I only have ten days left.The first week was slow because you get adjusted to everything but the last two weeks have gone by so fast.Now I do things on my own, have a morning run through the countryside, go to the market.It's a small community here so a lot of people now us obrunis.Now whenever I go for a walk or to the market people wave because they know me not just because I'm white.

Oh and the food here is very good.Heavy for good.You need a lot of energy to get through the very hot days.I don't know what cold is anymore.

Eventful few days

2010-01-19T07:57:00.000-08:00

I'm back from Kumasi.Two volunteers and I spent the weekend in this old Ashanti city, which is now Ghana's second biggest city.It's more cultural than Accra as Ashanti people are very proud of their history and really try to preserve it.We visited the Ashanti king's palace (yes, they still have a king) as well the Kumasi market, one of the biggest markets in West Africa.It's very busy and everything is sold here.We also visited the Ghana Cultural Center where everything from drums, statues and paintings can be bought.

The ride to Kumasi was beautiful even though buses are uncomfortable, crowded and hot.Imagine lush green landscapes.Although it rarelly rains here (we had the first rainfall in two weeks on Friday...and what a rainfall.Kids here take showers outside when it rains and have water fights because it's the only time they can play with water without wasting it).The countryside is amazing.

On our way back from Kumasi we had a small tro-tro accident but nothing major and nobody was hurt.Drivers are crazy but they know what they are doing.We jumped onto another tro-tro and five minutes latert it ran out of gas, meaning we had to find another one.Eventful drive back home indeed.

The night following the trip was a strange one.Around 3 am, our neighbours came banging on our door saying that everyone should get out because there had been an earthquake warning.Earthquake in Ghana.So imagine everyone at 3 am sitting outside for an hour.It was both scary, amusing and ridiculous.Especially since it turned to be a false alrm.Apparently someone in Ghana (I don't know where) prtetended there was going to be earthquake.He phoned a friend who phoned a friend who phoned a friend.Richard, our coordinator, actually heard it from someone living in Cape Coast, 200 km from Accra.Eventful night.Ghanaians call each other so much and have such a great sense of community that the whole coastline found itself on the street at 3 am waiting for an earthquake.The Haiti tragedy only made things worse.

On Monday, I started work at the Maternity Clinic....and was allowed to watch a mother give birth to a baby boy.It was absolutely amazing...and nothing like I had imagined.They have no drugs here so it looked VERY painfu.I was allowed to hold to child after.The first time he opens his eyes is absolutely beautiful.
There is a lot to do here.The Margo Maternity Clinic is a small rural hospital.Chickens and cats roam around and the clinic is made out of little shacks.A lot of people come everyuday so I help with the pulse taking, temperature, questionnaires, injections...They taught me so much.Bacxk home you would need a degree for this but here they just learn opn the ground.

It is interesting to watch a woman's reaction here when you tell them they are gonna have a child. Out of the 4 women I talked to only one was truly happy.It was her first child.But the others already had a few and the prospect of another one means the family will struggle to make ends meet.After seeing what happens at the maltrunition ward, I can understand that they worry.A young woman today ate herbs on purpose so she could lose the child.She was 7 months pregnant.Poverty leads to terrible acts.I've heard a lot of similar stories since I've been here.Ghana is still very poor.

I told you the last few dfays had been eventful...

On another subject, I tried to upload pictures onto the website and it takes FOREVER and the computer crashes.Internet is very slow here.

Thoughts on street vendors

2010-01-15T08:19:00.000-08:00

Actually they're more road vendors than street vendors.People selling EVERYTHING while you're sitting on the tro-tro or taxi.They hold their merchandise on their head on in their arms.It's like a supermarket.You can buy everything from food/water to fabric and flags, telephone cards and Bibles.Someone told me some people even sometimes sell puppies.I'm not surprised.I don't know how people make a living out of this.Everybody buys from them but they are so many street vendors that I'm not sure they actually make a lot of money.

The Rehab Center

2010-01-15T07:59:00.000-08:00

I worked for three days at the rehabilitation center at the Children's Hospital.It's both a great place and a sad one.All the kids from the malnutrition ward go through rehabilitation.They come as often as they can until they're are doing well.Some of the chubby kids I saw were in a bad state only a few weeks ago. So hope is there.I saw some before/after pictures and the difference is astonishing.Every Friday they all have a complete check-up.It's a great out patient follow-up system.

On a sadder note, I also saw my first HIV/AIDS cases in children.Two of them are probably not going to live very long.They are barely two and already very sick.The children all caught it from their parents.It's sad to see children with HIV because they can't talk yet to tell you where it hurts so they just cry.There is not much to do except treat them as best as one can for whatever disease, skin problem or rash they have for the moment.

This weekend I'm going to Kumasi (an old Ashanti tribe town) with a couple of friends.It's nice to take a break on the weekend.

First days at the Children's Hospital

2010-01-12T09:46:00.000-08:00

(Lucky you, two posts today)

I had my first two days of work at the Children's Hospital.I asked to stay at the malnutrition wards for a few days.It's sad place but doctors do their best with what they have.
Currently, there are about 6 children but some come and go.Most of children are under 2 years old, although it's very hard to see as they are very small and often extremely skinny.

Two of them are in a particularly bad shape.One 17 months little Liberian girl (refugee), Rita, arrived on Sunday. She was so weak that she couldn't walk, hold her head up or even eat.So she had to be fed through the nose.As a refugee, the mother has very little means.Today she was already doing a little better.I'm allowed to the rounds with the head doctor and the nurses so I get to see everything that goes on.

Another little boy, Samuel, has a very sad story.He has two other siblings, a 4 months old brother and a 4 year old brother.He is 13 months old and his mother simply won't care for him.The doctors are at loss as to why she does not like him but the 4 months old brother is the same size and weighs for that Samuel.He is a little like a vegetable and does not really react to anything.He is often alone so when I'm doing anything I stay by him.The hospital is trying to keep Samuel as long as they can because they know that if they send him home, he will probably be back quickly.

The other children are malnourished as a result of poverty and lack of education/knowledge.One of the mothers in 18 years old and does not know how to deal with a child while still in school.The pharmacist today told me that malnutrition is becoming more of a problem, especially in Accra.While Ghana is developing, on a local and family level many people still own very little and cannot feed their child.Uneducated people have 4-5 kids (educated people have 2) but not the means to feed them.

There are 3 HIV cases for the moment out of 20 children in total.They often come to the malnutrition ward but obviously need special care.While most malnutrition cases are send to rehabilitation center after five days or so, there is not much one can do for kids with HIV as their nutrition and weight will always be a problem.

The children are fed every 4 hours and are on a special diet, which consists of 4 different types of milk, paste and vitamins: M75, M 100, R. Then they also get .food, depending on their state. They also get drugs and injection once day, are weighted at 6 am and 8 pm, and temperature is taken 4 times a day.A nutritionist is always on the ground to give advice to the parents.What the hospital lack is a professional psychologist for the parents.The head doctor is very aware of this.As he told me today someone's like Samuel's mother really needs a psychologist.They were trying to convince to take care of her child, but she just looked away.But the hospital does not have to means to get a professional counselor.Yesterday, I met a psychology student from the University of Ghana who is doing research on how relatives/caretaker react when their child is sick.Apparently, no one has ever done this in Ghana before.Research like this is difficult because relatives do not easily talk about their feelings and problems.Moreover, funding is rare.

Nurses and doctors are extremely nice and generous.They answer all my questions, let me observe everything they do and come to me tell me about the challenges they meet.They are happy to have visitors.

To resume, it has been a great couple of days.I already learned a lot.

Thoughts on Ghanaian Chaos

2010-01-12T09:32:00.000-08:00

A little like New Yorkers and Italians, Ghanaians seem to like chaos.First, they will just p[ark and drive anywhere.They drive like mad men and accident occur regularly.Everyone travels by taxi or tro-tro.Anything alive or not gets on these things.Today, I had a hen next to me and a friend of mine even told me that she once saw a goat being put at the passenger seat.
Second, there's litter everywhere.Don't even think about trying to find a garbage can.It breaks my heart every time I have to throw something away but there is no choice.
But somehow the chaos doesn't disturb me.I know it's dirty and overcrowded but in a strange way that's part of the excitement.The noise, dirt, loud music, cars honking, volubility is just part of Ghana.It's wondrously chaotic.

If you ever go to a country that has tro-tros, use them (carefully as some are about to fall part).It';s the best way to meet people when you're a foreigner.Yesterday I was standing at the back of the line, everybody let me in before then because they were so happy to see a foreigner on a tro.Then you exchange a few words, email address and phone numbers.It makes them happy.And you get to know the country in a very different way.

Visit to the Liberian refugee camp

2010-01-10T06:20:00.000-08:00

On Friday I went to the Liberian refugee camp near Accra.It was founded 30 years ago and a lot of the children who now live there were born in Ghana.The camp is headed by UNHCR. UNAIDS, Unicef and the World Food Organization are also present.They try to organize skill workshops but it's hard for Liberians to get a job in Ghana so most of them wqork within the camp and receive money from relatives living abroad (especially Canada and the US).HIV/AIDS is quite a big problem there so there quite a big clinic on the ground where people can get tested.I saw several posters within the camp trying to convince people to get tested and have safer sex.
Visiting the camp was quite an experience. People have actual little houses there, not tents but they still don't own a lot.One of the small shacks burn down while we were there and people were devastated as this is their only property.Most people won't go back to Liberia.Most of time because they have made their life here.Although they do not own much here, life in Liberia does not provide as much security as life in the camp.They have built their own small Liberia here.

On Saturday, I went to Kokrobite beach with some of the volunteers.A lot of Ghanaians come there to dance and play drums so it was great to experience that side of Ghanaian culture.Needless to say Ghanaians know how to throw a party.

I'm starting my project tomorrow.I'm very excited.The Children's Hospital has some great programs and try to provide the best care possible.However, the government recently cut funding so they have a lot to deal with.I'll tell you more about it once I've spent some time there but the nurses were very nice and showed me around for quite a long time.They try to teach parents to establish a healthy diet for their child even with little means.In the rehabilitation center, some of kids were really skinny.One of the nurses measured a child's upper arm to see how much weight he needed to gain.It's quite sad to watch but at least the child will receive help.

Akwaaba!

2010-01-07T05:07:00.000-08:00

I'm sorry it took so long for me to post something.I had to get settled in first and Internet cafes are usually pretty busy and don't always work.But anyway..here I am..and it's 35C...

Landing in Ghana is a great experience, especially at sunrise.I like it here already and I'm starting to fit in.Everything is chaotic but somehow it makes things more exciting.Markets in Ghana are absolutely crazy.Goats and chickens are sold next to TVs and fridges.But everything is so cheap and the food, especially fruits, are amazing.Ghanaians are very nice and extremely welcoming.The kids are hilarious and yell "Obruni"(white) every time they see me (white people are rare).They don't mean harm and laugh when you wave back at them.One little 2 year old girl ran into my arms to see what it was like to be held by a white person.They also touch your skin and, apparently, find it funny-looking.

Music is also a big thing here.There is always someone singing or a radio blasting Ghanaian music somewhere.Everyone here travels by tro-tro 9which range from comfortable to piece of chunk) or by shared taxi.So where ever you go, you meet a lot of people and they are always curious to know where you are doing and appreciate you coming here.

The hostel I'm staying at for the moment is very nice (taking a shower is an entirely new experience but fun).I'm sharing it with English, German and Danish girls.We went to the beach together (for my birthday), visited Accra as well as local plantation farms.The landscape is absolutely amazing and very green, although it rarely rains.

Today I went to the Children's Hospital I'll be working at for a while.They get a lot of kids everyday, especially kids suffering from malnutrition.Nurses then teach parents how to feed the children adequately.I'm starting there on Monday then will move to another hospital (HIV clinic) to see how things work there.I also visited a local school for children living with one parent only.Often the parent can't afford regular school fees so they send their children there.

I'm also learning twi (local dialect).Also everyone speaks English they like it when you speak a few words

I hope I'll be able to post pictures at some point.I'm having a great time here and tell you more as soon as I can

Last post from Montreal

2010-01-01T03:08:00.000-08:00

I'm leaving in 30 minutes.The next post will probably be from Ghana.I'm tired but very excited

D - 2

2009-12-30T07:23:00.000-08:00

I'm leaving in two days.I will pack tomorrow.
New security measures: carry-on baggage prohibited (well, I'm allowed to have a purse).I have a 10hr flight....
I tried to find summer clothes yesterday but of course failed miserably as it's the middle of winter over here.I couldn't even find mosquito repellent.I checked the weather in Ghana, it's 30C...We had -25C yesterday here in Montreal...

For a start...

2009-12-27T06:43:00.000-08:00

Well, that's a good start...As a result of the attempted attack on a Delta flight, security will be tightened and passengers have been advised to arrive three hours early. Also, no excess luggage.Not that I was planning on bringing my entire house but still.But, you know, I understand why they're doing it
I just hope the Montreal-NY plane won't be delayed I need to catch my plane to Accra.

25 December

2009-12-25T06:28:00.000-08:00

Merry Christmas!!!

I'm leaving in a week!!

Montreal-Brussels/Paris-Kigali

2009-12-16T06:31:00.000-08:00

I now have booked my flight to Rwanda and will make a 2 week stop in Europe.It's all going so fast.When I come from Ghana, I'll have two months here and then I'm leaving again.

Leaving for Accra, Ghana in exactly 15 days and 380 hours.I have all the paperwork ready, flights booked etc.Packing will probably take two or three days.I also hope we don't get a snow storm on the 1rst.That would make things more complicated.

Visa Ghana

2009-12-04T14:38:00.000-08:00

Quick update: on Thursday, I received my Ghanaian Visa.It looks great by the way.First visa from an African country.I'm also relieved.I'm leaving in less than a month: January 1rst!

World Aids Day

2009-12-01T06:35:00.001-08:00

Today is World Aids Day!

November 25

2009-11-27T09:47:00.000-08:00

November 25 marked the 10^th anniversary of the UN-sponsored International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women. This day launches 16 days of activism against gender-violence around the world. As you know the issue is the main point of my project in Rwanda so I thought I should at least remember this day. On 17 December 1999, the General Assembly designated 25 November as the International Day for the Elimination of Violence against Women, and invited governments, international organizations and NGOs to organize activities designated to raise public awareness of the problem on that day. The UN described domestic violence against women as one of the most pervasive human rights violation known today.

UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon renewed his campaign opposing violence against women:

"Our goal is clear: to end these inexcusable crimes -- whether it is the use of rape as a weapon of war, domestic violence, sex trafficking, so-called 'honor' crimes or female genital mutilation.” He said it was crucial to address the roots of violence against women and reminded people of the UN campaign, "UNite to End Violence Against Women.” The campaign calls for countries to put in place laws, action plans, prevention, and systematic measures to address sexual violence in conflict situations and other forms of gender-violence whether during conflict or not (in France, for example, one woman dies every two days as a result of domestic violence. It is not confined to a single culture or region or to particular groups of women within a society. You must know that up to 70% of women experience physical or sexual violence from men in their lifetime. Shocking, right?). UN Resident Coordinator, Khin-Sandi Lwin, said, “The message is clear: We have a responsibility to end gender-based violence together as Women, girls, men, boys and individuals of all generations, religions, occupations and political beliefs, regardless of our socio-economic backgrounds.” The consequences of gender-based violence are devastating and have been mentioned before. Violence not only physically and emotionally hurts the victim but also impedes the ability of women to go to work and earn a living to support their families.

The UN also called for men to take action to eradicate violence done to women:

“Violence against women and girls will not be eradicated until all of us - men and boys - refuse to tolerate it,” said the UN secretary general.

To commemorate the day, U.N. Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon will launch his Network of Men Leaders, a major new initiative of his UNiTE to End Violence Against Women campaign. The Network of Men Leaders consists of politicians, activists, religious and community leaders who will work together to support the efforts of women around the world to embrace equality and inspire men to speak out against violence.

Visit these websites for more information on the issue:

http://www.un.org/en/women/endviolence/

http://www.whiteribbonday.org.au/

Ghana: "Freedom and Justice"

2009-11-25T07:56:00.000-08:00

Official name: United Republic of Ghana

Motto: "Freedom and Justice"

Population: 23.8 million

Capital: Accra. Capital since 1877.

Other large cities: Kumasi, Tamale

Major Ethnic distribution: African 98.5% (major tribes: Akan 44%, Moshi-Dagomba 16%, Ewe 13%, Ga 8%, Gurma 3%, Yoruba 1%), European and other 1.5%

Religions: Christian 69%, Traditionalists 8.5%, Muslim 15.6%, others 6.9%.

Languages: English (official), African (Akan, Mole-Dagomba, Ewe and Ga)

President: John Atta Mills (2009)

Monetary unit: Cedi

Agriculture: cocoa, rice, coffee, tapioca, peanuts, corn, shea nuts, bananas, timber.

Natural resources: fish, gold, timber, diamonds, rubber, hydropower, petroleum, silver, salt, limestone…

Climate: tropical, warm and comparatively dry along southeast coast, hot and humid in southwest, hot and dry in north.

History
Much of the attraction of Ghana is based upon its legacy as the center of the gold, ivory, and slave trade during the 17th and 18th centuries, when the mighty Ashanti Empire held sway here. Ghana has always stood out among African countries since it was the first African nation to gain independence from a colonial power (1957).

The Republic of Ghana is named after the medieval Ghana Empire of West Africa. The actual name of the Empire was Wagadugu but Ghana was the title of the kings who ruled the kingdom. Before 1957, Ghana was called the Gold Coast. Kumasi, the Ashanti (ethnic group) capital, was one of most advanced cities in Africa and, at the time, it was far more developed than any European country. The Ghana Empire was in the Sahel and included most of present-day Senegal and some regions of Mali and Mauritania. It did not reach as far south as today.

In 1482, the Portuguese built a castle in Elmina, in the Central region along the coast. Their goal was to trade in gold, ivory and slaves. The slave trade grew in importance over the decades, although it already existed prior to colonialism. In 1598 the Dutch joined the Portuguese and other European traders joined in by the mid 18th century, including the English. Ghana became largely considered a British territory by the latter half of the 19th century. The remnants of the trade in Ghana are still visible today: numerous forts and castles were built by Europeans between 1482 and 1786. The large-scale organization of European slave trading, the development of industry in Europe and massive plantations the Americas largely dependent on slave labor gave rise to a trade in humans that was shocking in its scale. Many of the forts have been preserved and attract visitors as part of the Slave Route Project of UNESCO.

The colonial years were relatively untroubled but little was done to involve the African population in the political processes. Immediately after WWII things moved fast: the turning point was the return home in 1947 of Kwame Nkrumah after several years of study and radical politics abroad. He was invited back to the Gold Coast to become general secretary of the United Gold Coast Convention, an organization campaigning for self-government. He organized non-violent protests and strikes. But in the colony's first general election, in 1951, the CPP, founded by Nkrumah in 1949, won convincingly. In 1952, he became prime minister. A year before independence, the neighboring Togo voted to merge with the Gold Coast. Nkrumah gained leadership of the country in 1957 and the Gold Coast adopted the name of Ghana.

By regional standards, Ghana is often seen as a model for political and economic reform in Africa. Ghana became a republic in 1960 with Nkrumah as president for life and only one political party, the CPP. Ghana fell into corruption and economic decline. Nkrumah was brought down by a coup in 1966. After experiencing a series of coups, Lt. Jerry Rawlings took power in 1981, leading the country towards economic stability and democracy. After drafting and approving a new constitution, Rawlings won presidential elections in 1992 and 1998. John Kufuor succeeded him until 2009. The post of President is now held by John Atta Mills.

John Atta Mills

Culture

A common feature of all Ghanaian cultures is the love for festivals, dance and music. There is one almost every week. They cover the right of passage child-birth, puberty, marriage and death. There are 3 main types of music: traditional music; "highlife" music (mix of traditional and ‘imported’ music); choral music. Drumming is also highly popular.
While there is a small body of written literature in indigenous languages, Ghanaians maintain a rich oral tradition. Literature in English is also well developed.

Food

Ghana has diverse traditional dishes from each ethnic group. Soups are the primary component in Ghanaian cuisine and are eaten with fufu (either pounded plantain and yam), kokonte (cassava meal cooked into a paste), banku (fermented corn dough), boiled yam, rice, bread, plantain, or cassava. The most common soups are palm nut soup and groundnut (peanut) soup, Jolof rice, West African curry

Fishing Boats

Places to visit (I’m not gonna do it all since I’ll only have the weekends off, but obviously I’ll make sure to visit most of it)

Greater Accra: Makola Market, The DuBois Centre, University of Ghana, the National Museum, Old Accra, botanical garden, Bojo beach. Busua and Dixcove, two fishing villages not far away from Accra.
Ashanti and Central region Region: Kumasi, Lake Bosomtwi.
Brong Ahafo region: Kintanpo waterfalls, lakes, National Park, Tafi Atome
The Coast: castles along the coastline, Kakum National Park (rain forest), beaches and fishing villages, fishing fleets, market day in Elmina and Cape Coast. The coastline is Ghana’s premier attraction, full of palm-lined beaches and the remains of European coastal forts.
Northern region: Mole National Park (elephants, baboons, crocodile ponds,…)
Volta Region and East: Lake Volta, Wli waterfalls, Mount Afadjato, Tagbo Falls, Shai nature reserve

Bojo Beach

Marie'

I feel like a slice of Gruyère...

2009-11-14T08:17:00.000-08:00

I got all my vaccines yesterday. Here is the list
Tetanus
Yellow Fever (without which i can't enter the country)
Hepatitis A
Meningitis
Polio
Cholera
Typhoid

And I got my prescription for Malaria medication and other things.I'm starting treatment in two weeks to make sure it works for me.
This morning, my arms and legs hurt and I feel like a slice of Gruyère cheese, full of little holes.

I also applied for my Visa yesterday.So now I just have to wait.

Time is flying by...

The Project, part II.

2009-11-04T07:32:00.000-08:00

First, I would like to thank everyone who has sent donations and messages of encouragement. I greatly appreciate it. I’m overwhelmed by the reaction and will do my best to keep you informed about everything.
I would like to talk you more about my project/research. The Ghanaian project requires me to establish a report paper, so this will allow me to ask questions and observe the work people do there.

Community-driven approaches

As I told you at the very beginning, I’m interested in looking how African civil societies and community-based organizations, (meaning local communities, groups and individuals) deal with problems such as HIV/AIDS or gender-based violence. Given the inadequate health infrastructure of many Sub-Saharan countries and the overall scarcity of resources to combat the epidemic, I think the adoption of creative strategies involving communities in the prevention and control of the disease is one of the most important issues and should be brought to the attention of policymakers and health workers.

Every year, the US and European Union spend millions of dollars on AIDS prevention programmes. While I obviously support this and am delighted that policymakers want to solve the problem, I also think that we do not pay enough attention to more local solutions and communities. AIDS prevention has become a multi-billion dollar industry. The problem is that relief funds is that those who provide them have a certain number of rules and ideas about how prevention programmes should be run. But sometimes the problem is that these rules do not sit well with certain African communities. Community approach can be a great opportunity to find the best solution possible and engage individuals and community outreach services. Moreover, community-driven initiatives and activism provide a great springboard for democratization and development.

Uganda is often used as a story of success as well that civil societies and African governments are very much capable of establishing programmes adapted to their needs and culture. And not necessarily with a lot of resources.

In the 1980s, Uganda’s infection rate was of 20% (30% among pregnant women in cities!). But in the early 1990s, the infection began to drop and today stands at 7%. While this is still high, the drop is remarkable. Although Uganda is poor, strong government leadership (despite not being democratic), broad-based partnerships and education programmes contributed to this major decline. Since most infections are spread by sex outside the marriage, he programme was named ABC: Abstain, Be faithful, use Condoms. Although the method has drawn criticism from donors (particularly due to the emphasis on abstinence), the solution fit into Ugandan culture and beliefs. The Ugandan government put funding and efforts into the programmes by establishing HIV/AIDS committees and by engaging all sectors of society. Local communities are involved in community-outreach programmes such as training leaders and community workers to educate people about the risk of the disease.

Therefore, while funding and support are of course needed, there should be an actual dialogue between those who provide funding and those who receive it. The people who are responsible on a daily basis for providing services as well as those who receive them are in the best position to analyze the needs and challenges and therefore to tailor solutions specific to local conditions. Moreover, the more individuals and local communities are empowered, the greater the likelihood that we will be able to gather a set of lessons that can be built upon. Lessons are derived from community-based organizations who work together to solve their own problems while being provided the necessary tools and support.

Involved women, targeting women

Now, considering women are particularly affected by both HIV/AIDS and gender-based violence, my goal is particularly focus on the way women are involved in community-driven programmes. Often women are overlooked yet considering they bear the brunt of the problems, it should be crucial to establish programmes targeted specifically to women or started by women themselves.

If we take the case of Rwanda, women are rarely allowed to inherit or own property. So if, let’s say, their husbands died during the genocide they are not allowed to inherit property left behind and are therefore rendered destitute. Care programmes should acknowledge this problem by being gender-sensitive. My aim is to look at what civil society has done to provide care, education, counseling, political power, access to food, water and health care. I know that such women's groups have emerged in Rwanda and I plan to look at what they do and how and if it works. Their goal is to strengthen medical and psychological assistance for gender-based violence victims, provide vocational training and encourage legal protection of women and men. Here international agencies can help in professionalizing and providing long-term support.

On the subject of community-based approaches and individuals trying to raise awareness about HIV/AIDS, I would recommend a book by Stephanie Bolen, 28 Stories of Aids in Africa. She relates the story of 28 individuals she met during her various trips to Sub-Saharan Africa. All of them have HIV/AIDS but are now trying to make a change in their society. They do so by providing home-care, travelling around the country in pick-up to raise awareness about the epidemic, provide agricultural support and food for the sick, set up counselling groups and orphan care, and even organize “Miss HIV/AIDS Beauty contest” in an effort to eliminate the stigma of Aids. This with or without much support or resources. A former soldier (a high-risk group since they travel a lot and often practice high-risk sexual behaviour) who caught HIV in his twenties now travels around his country of Ethiopia in order to educate soldiers about the disease. The initial response was rejection, but the problem is so great that soldiers are lacking and military readiness in danger. Out of necessity and concern, the militaries have had to take major steps and emerged as leaders in the response to the disease in terms of prevention, care, treatment even research. The former soldier says: “The soldiers listen. They believe me because I was one of them. I talk like they do. With me, they say, ‘This guy is one of us’.”

Eerie insurance information and Ghana program news

2009-10-27T06:56:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I paid my Ghana volunteer program and received all the insurance numbers and information.You will be happy to know that accidental death and dismemberment are covered.Yes, this is a a little creepy.I do not plan on loosing an arm but obviously you never know.Also, suicide is not covered.Insurance documents are always a little sinister.

Montreal-Accra-Montreal

2009-10-20T09:31:00.000-07:00

Just a quick update to let you know that I booked my flights to Ghana (finally).Leaving on January 1rst (yes, New Year's partying will be tranquil), arriving in Accra very early on the 2nd.The program starts on the 4th so it will me a day or two to recuperate and get "somewhat" accustomed to the environment.I'll be fit and wide awake to start my work.Now that i have booked the flights, everything is even more exciting and scary.
Soon I'll take care of the visas and vaccines.Time is flying!

Ghosts of Rwanda

2009-10-06T14:13:00.001-07:00

"Rwanda will never leave me: it's in the pores of my body. We saw lots of them dying, and lots of those eyes still haunt me -- angry eyes, innocent eyes. They're looking at me with my blue beret, and they're saying, 'What in the hell happened?' ... And they're absolutely right: How come I failed? How come my mission failed?" (General Romeo Dallaire)

Today, an important Rwandan genocide suspect was arrested so I thought I'd post a very interesting documentary about the genocide. Idelphonse Nizeyimana was head of intelligence and military operations at Rwanda's elite military training school. He is charged with adhering to and executing a plan to wipe out the Tutsis.
"Ghosts of Rwanda" is a PBS Frontline documentary about the genocide and particularly the response (or lack thereof) of America and the West.Even though Rwanda is a very small and unknown country at the time America, Europe and the UN had been warned about what was happening. Instead of intervening, the West resisted intervention from the beginning.Americans, French, Belgians and Italians citizens on the ground were all evacuated and the entire U.N. Security Council voted to withdraw 90% of the peacekeepers in Rwanda.General Romeo Dallaire was left with 450 ill-prepared troops from developing countries.Leaders refused to call it genocide and the world failed to intervene.

The documentary can be watched online.It is gruesome but very well done.This is the first part of the documentary but the rest can be watched online as well (on youtube or here: http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/shows/ghosts/video/ )

Here's the website on "Ghosts of Rwanda" where you can find a timeline and several interviews.

http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/shows/ghosts/

Awards:

Winner, DuPont Columbia Award (Television equivalent of the Pulitzer Prize)
Winner, Robert F. Kennedy Journalism Award
The Sidney Hillman Foundation Journalism Award
Banff World Television Festival Award- Best Social & Political Documentary

How many lives? HIV/AIDS in Africa, Ghana

2009-10-04T11:12:00.000-07:00

HIV/AIDS is predominantly a sexually transmitted disease. It causes illness and death among mature and sexually active adults, usually between 15 and 50 years of age, therefore the most productive people.

Why is Africa so affected by HIV?

Susceptibility varies from continent to continent, from society to society. Over three-quarters of those killed by HIV/AIDS live in Sub-Saharan Africa. The region remains the worst affected area and yet there is no straight-forward answer as to why Africa is more affected by AIDS than any other continent. It is influenced by various factors. None of these problems are particularly unique to Africa but nowhere else do they exist in such abundance. In Somalia, the HIV prevalence is under 1% of the adult population, but in Namibia, South Africa, and Zimbabwe around 15-20% of adults are infected. In Botswana and Swaziland (Southern Africa) the national adult HIV prevalence rate now exceeds 20%. West Africa has been less affected by HIV and AIDS, but some countries are experiencing rising HIV prevalence rates.

It must also be added that anti-retroviral therapies are too expensive and need fairly sophisticated delivery infrastructure. Access in therefore very difficult, contrary to countries such as the US.

Some factors:

- Patterns of sexual behavior: In African countries, the majority of infections are transmitted through heterosexual sex. One of major causes of HIV infections is unsafe sex.
Many individuals have multiple sexual partner but do not necessarily use protection. A married man may have several partners at the same time, including young girls. Such behaviors are normative in Africa and differ from serial monogamy. As a result, the virus spreads through generations as these overlapping "concurrent" relationships link individuals and generations, a little bit like a giant spider web.
Some groups are more at risk than others: Truck drivers, female sex workers are less likely to use contraceptives.

- History: Migration, slave trade, mismanagement, violence, inequalities, corruption etc…
- Poverty: AIDS is not caused by poverty (although poor people are more likely to get infected) but has indirect effect on HIV incidence. Poor people are more likely to be infected.
- Gender inequalities

Many women find it difficult to ask their husband to use condoms. Sexual violence, such as forced sex, is also widespread in many regions.
- Migration and a mobile work force, especially truckers. The virus travels.
- War: Refugees spread HIV as they flee.
- Lack of access to health care: There is no vaccine but Anti-retroviral therapy reduces the morbidity of the virus as it prolongs the time between HIV infection and AIDS.
- Talking about sex is often taboo, leading many people to remain silent
- Rapid urbanization. Cities are breeding grounds.

Why are women particularly affected?

Infection rates in young African women are higher than young men. It is difficult for women to protect themselves as result of several factors
- Gender inequalities
- Prostitution to gain economic power (female sex-workers are a high-risk group).
Women are often economically and socially disadvantaged, leading to a lack of access to treatment and financial support. In some cases they are also perceived as the cause of the HIV/AIDS and as the prime transmitters. These believes lead to stigmatization, often leading to differential treatment in terms of care and support.

Discrimination has spread rapidly, leading to anxiety to come forward. For example, HIV and AIDS are believed to bring shame upon the family. People living with the disease are often seen as being responsible for contracting HIV, especially as it is associated with death and behaviors that are already stigmatized.

>> There is a need to pay more attention to women as they are already disadvantaged and find it harder to seek care, which is why the project and research I will do on the ground will primarily focus on women

Effects on African societies

The impact of HIV/AIDS on African countries is enormous but hard for to imagine. A lot of the continents problems are directly and indirectly linked to the AIDS crisis. The HIV virus causes AIDS and destroys the ability of the body to fight off opportunistic infections by destroying the immune system cells. The body therefore becomes vulnerable to all kinds of diseases
The social and economic consequences of HIV/AIDS are enormous and tragic. It kills more people than wars and AIDS is making Africans poorer, especially because the epidemic is hitting the middle generation of society.

- Direct effect: increase in mortality

Someone who has been infected by HIV can expect to live 9 years on average before falling seriously ill. Mortality will affect both adult and infants (mother-to-child transmission). Ex: life expectancy at birth in Swaziland is 31 years (approximately 78-80 in Europe and North America).

- Economy and development

Lack of producers and consumers is setting back economic activity and social progress on several levels depending on where she/he fits in the community. HIV/AIDS acts as a significant brake on economic growth and development as the virus reduces the productivity of workers and skilled workers become scarcer. In return, lack of development has affected African country’s ability to cope with the disease.
- Household

The impact of AIDS is immediate and catastrophic. AIDS has devastated entire Africans families as individuals are hit in their productive prime and no longer can act as a caregiver and income earner. At the same time, the medical bill rises. Families therefore lack basic necessities
- Food production

Fields can no longer be tended for. Food shortages, malnutrition, exacerbation of poverty, starvation at household and community level.
- Children

Orphans and child-headed households
- Health sector

The large number of patients puts strains on an already fragile health system. It affects the availability of treatment for non-AIDS illnesses n the health system and put additional pressure on health staff.
- Education

Some schools lack teachers because of AIDS. Children also drop out of school to help nurse their parents. Families can also no longer pay school fees since the money is spent on medical care. Fewer children therefore receive basic education.

Response

The response varies from country to country. While other first evaded the subject, many governments have been very effective in their response and place great emphasis on prevention.
- Education and prevention (including schools, ad campaigns, "Miss HIV" contests,...)
- Voluntary counseling and testing
- Access to condoms
- Strategies to prevent mother-to child transmission of HIV
- Anti-AIDS Drugs, anti-retroviral treatment programs (availability difficult)
- Protection from stigma and discrimination
- Care for people living with HIV, AIDS orphans etc

Ghana

Facts and statistics

- First case reported: 1986
- Total Population: 22,9 million. 320,000 estimated to be living with HIV (2005). The cumulative AIDS cases is difficult to estimate as the vast majority of those infected do not know they are
- HIV/AIDS Adult prevalence rate: 2.6 % compared to 7.5% in Sub-Saharan Africa and 1.1 % globally (UNAIDS report on the Global Aids epidemic, July 2004). Currently the epidemic is stable. In comparison to other African countries, Ghana’s prevalence rate is relatively low.
- Prevalence of women (56%). The initial cases were predominantly female but ratio started to narrow 10 years ago.
- People between 25-34 are the hardest hit, especially young women
- Estimated number of Aids orphans:
- Percentage of HIV-Infected people receiving Anti-retroviral Therapy: 16% (end 2006)
- Number of people estimated to be in need of ART:
- Most at risk populations: sex-workers and their clients (transactional sex), particularly women. Economic migrants, female itinerant traders. Refugee flows from neighboring countries, such as Côte-d’Ivoire can also lead to an elevation of Ghana’s HIV prevalence rate.
- Many factors have led to the spread of HIV/AIDS, including compromised political and economic situations, unbalanced gender relations, labor migration (national and international), high-risk sexual behaviors.

Knowledge and Concern

There is widespread knowledge about HIV and the modes of transmission. The problem, however, is to turn this knowledge into behavioral change. Also, stigma and discrimination are still great, leading many infected people to hide their HIV-positive status.

National Response

- The Ghanaian Government responded actively to the HIV epidemic by creating a Ghana AIDS Commission. The government spearheaded several programs and has increasingly partnered with NGOs. The role of the commission is to coordinate and oversee all the HIV related activities and programs as well as implement a National Strategic Framework on HIV-AIDS.
- The National Strategic Framework is based on several intervention areas: promoting HIV/AIDS policy, coordinating a decentralized response, organizing prevention and behavioral change programs, providing treatment and care to HIV patients and affected individuals, HIV research and monitoring, mobilizing resources and funding.
- Most Ministries play a role in preventing the spread of HIV, particularly the Ministry of Education and the Ministry of Employment and Social Welfare.
- Nationwide HIV/AIDS campaigns have also been organized with the aim of disseminating information, empowering adolescent girls, helping people to move away from judgemental attitudes about safe sex and HIV/AIDS. Some initiatives also target specific groups, such as commercial drivers.

Remaining challenges in Ghana

- HIV is spread by certain types oh human behavior and so it could be controlled by changing these behaviors. There needs to be involvement from all sectors of society to promote prevention and intervention to reduce high-risk sexual behaviors, mitigate the problems of those already infected by the virus or otherwise affected by the epidemic. - Indifference and denial. The epidemic in Western Africa is not as visual in the East.
- Many people are never tested for HIV and only become aware of the infection once they have developed an AIDS-related illness.
- Discrimination and stigma
- Funding
- Continuing feminization of the epidemic. Because women were particularly affected initially, HIV/AIDS is still perceived as a women’s epidemic. The myth the AIDS is caused by women still exists. There are also gender differences in access to economic opportunities.

Some links:

http://www.ghanaids.gov.gh/gac/index.php

http://www.usaid.gov/policy/budget/cbj2006/afr/gh.html

http://www.who.int/hiv/en/

The War Against Women: Rwanda

2009-09-24T12:47:00.000-07:00

My volunteer project in Rwanda will consist in dealing with women, girls and families affected by gender-based violence during and after the genocide of 1994. I also plan to look at the way women’s organizations (small and large) are used in post-conflict situations or to deal with crucial problems such as HIV/AIDS and gender-based violence (GBV) etc. I believe that these organizations’ and individuals’ work could be used to lead to more peaceful, gender-sensitive, equal and democratized societies.

The aim of my research in Ghana will be very similar (but more about that another time)...

During conflict, women often acquire new skills. They can be, and should be, crucial in decision-making processes regarding peace and development. Often, women are excluded from formal political processes although they could bring a completely different dimension and more inclusive peace. The goal of peacekeeping is to bring structural changes (legal, psychological, education, health care, etc) in society that will allow for peace to prevail. Moreover, peace building and development should be largely community-owned and-directed. Community–driven approaches can encourage a more gender-balanced representation.

The aim of my research will be to see how local organizations and individuals:

± Raise awareness about GBV, gender issues, gender equality, women’s rights etc
± Provide psychological and medical assistance to survivors, provide social services and education
± Attempt to reduce the culture of violence
± Try to change institutions and laws in their country
± Raise awareness of health workers or try to influence ministries, police etc
± If and how they foster public discussions
± Attempt to get more women involved in formal politics
± Engage in long-term development and rehabilitation
± Attempt to create employment, provide economic assistance and establish microcredit and vocational programs, etc

Intended Consequences, an exhibition about Rwandan children of rape and their mothers. Pictures taken by photojournalist Jonathan Torgovnik.

For those of you interested, here is some information on the subject of GBV.

“Women’s bodies [are] a battleground in times of war.” - Rachel Maranja, UN adviser on Gender Issues

o Gender-based violence

Gender based violence can be manifest as domestic violence, sexual assault and rape, and psychological abuse. Both men and women are affected by the problem (although women are more vulnerable than men). It can take place in the family, the community or be perpetrated by the state. In conflict situations, such as the genocide in Rwanda, GBV is often committed by soldiers. Since 2008, rape is considered as a crime against humanity, a war crime and in the case of Rwanda a crime of genocide. It has been called “the most pervasive yet least recognized human rights abuse in the world” by USAID.

Many countries are affected by the problem of GBV during conflict. The Democratic republic of Congo is sadly well known for that, although not much is done about it. GBV was also largely used during the genocide in Bosnia in 1995.

o Rwanda specifically

The situation of Rwandan women today has been defined by the 100-day genocide of 1994. The statistics are hard to believe. About one million Tutsi and Hutu, the country’s main ethnic groups, were killed. Between 250,000 and 500,000 Rwandan women and girls (both Tutsi and Hutu, although the reasons for each group were different) were sexually mutilated, held in sexual slavery, raped and gang-raped as rape was encouraged and became the rule. Under international law, rape constitutes a war crime and a crime against humanity, and in case of Rwanda, an act of genocide.

Organized propaganda fueled violence against women and girls. Tutsi women were portrayed as tools of the Tutsi community and as sexual weapons used to weaken Hutu men. Women became an enemy of the state and rape was used to dehumanize and intimidate Tutsi women as well as the entire Tutsi community. It became a military tactic that could used like a rifle. The perpetrators were mostly Hutu militia (Interahamwe) but also the military, the police, civilians and international soldiers. A culture of pre-existing (gender) inequalities created an environment for targeted violence during conflict. The magnitude of sexual violence in conflict will never be fully known since many victims do not come forward but it was certainly not a side effect of the conflict (as in most conflicts)

o Impact

- Stigmatization and social exclusion
- Poverty and ownership issues. Many women then resort to prostitution to survive.
- Health problems and inadequate health care. It increases the spread of sexually transmitted diseases, HIV/AIDS...
- Homelessness
- Caring for children from rape
- Psychological isolation

- GBV continuum: GBV can become an accepted practice as a result of conflict, leading to an increase in domestic violence once peace has been restored. This also due to men’s feeling of failure, their frustration over poverty and unemployment. Men then tend to assert their masculinity through violence.

The burden of the genocide fell heavily on women. It left almost half of the households headed by women. Right after the genocide, Rwanda had very much become a country of women, with 70% of the population being female. The burden of conflict and displacement falls disproportionately on women.

Victims therefore suffer economic and social difficulties:

- Women find it difficult to talk about their experience, particularly because the Rwandan cultural and social climate is very much conservative. Being a survivor of rape is not easy as victims carry a social stigma and face isolation.

- Before the genocide, men took care of all activities outside the household, making women largely dependent on men. In a post-genocide Rwanda, women’s subordinate status has grave implications. Their second-class status under Rwandan customary law makes it impossible to enjoy equality as they have to face discriminatory practices, particularly in terms of property inheritance law (as a general practice women cannot inherit property and access to owning is difficult). Women’s ability to find possibilities outside the home is difficult as they are primarily seen as child-bearers. They have little education and lack marketable skills and so many survivors have been reduced to a very low standard of living as they can no longer provide shelter, food or pay for school fees for their children.

- Women suffer persistent health problems as a result of the rape and other forms of gender-based violence (such as sexual mutilation). The rate of HIV infection is difficult to estimate. Before the genocide, 25% of the population was infected. But the situation was aggravated by the conflict. Because abortion is illegal in Rwanda, many women had self-induced abortions because they could not bear the thought of carrying a child of rape (“pregnancies of war”).

o Response in Rwanda

A growing number of organizations in Rwanda have started to emerge to deal with the issues facing women. Many survivors are trying to break the silence surrounding their experience. Counseling groups, survivor support groups, AIDS awareness centers and medical centers have been created and women are also getting more involved in politics. The Ministry of Gender and the Promotion o Women is working to educate women on the concept of gender and women’s rights.

Related Links (I’ll post a list of books soon):

http://www.theirc.org/our-work/gender-based-violence-programs

http://www.who.int/gender/violence/en/

http://www.hhri.org/thematic/gender_based_violence.html

http://www.unfpa.org/rights/violence.htm

Leave None to Tell the Story: Genocide in Rwanda. Human Rights Watch report. http://www.hrw.org/legacy/reports/1999/rwanda/

The Origin: The Projects

2009-09-09T21:31:00.001-07:00

I can't believe I'm going to do this! Excitement is one of the words that comes up to my mind. So here we go!Soon I will be participating in two volunteer/research programs in Ghana and Rwanda. By creating a blog, I hope to tell many people about my volunteer trip (plus my parents and some of my friends are worried that something might happen to me while I'll be in Ghana and Rwanda, and they want to make sure I'm alive. Pressure). Therefore, I intend to share my experience before (preparation will take a while. Between waiting for visas, visits to embassies, the long list of vaccines, etc...I'll be quite busy) during and after I've completed my volunteer programs. I hope I'll be able to post videos and pictures once I'm there so you get something more visual.

For my French family and friends: yes, I'll try to post things in French

So, for today, just a "quick" run down about the projects. More information will come soon:

I'll spend 5 weeks in Ghana (January-early February). During my placement, I will act as a counselor and caregiver for people affected by HIV/AIDS and other various types of diseases. As a result of poverty, many people are still barred from the most basic health care. I will assist nurses at the Magro Maternity Clinic and Health Center near the capital of Accra, a clinic which provides health care to many people in the area. It will involve general check-ups (malnutrition, malaria, etc), maternity check-ups, promoting behavioral change through facilitating discussions on HIV prevention and sexual health with patients and community groups, helping HIV/AIDS organizations in their community outreach programs,...

In Rwanda, where I'll spend 7 weeks (April-June), my project will be somewhat similar, except that this time I will work with women who were raped during the 1994 genocide as well as those affected by gender-based violence in the post-genocide era. It will involves counseling, visitations and follow-up. The aim of the programs is to provide emotional support, facilitate care and economic opportunities by working with individuals and local organizations, promote awareness about the consequences of gender-based violence as well as HIV/AIDS and diseases that could be controlled and prevented.

I will be working with two NGOs: Global Crossroad and Global Volunteer Network (I'll tell you more about them later but you should check them out). Both are independent non-profit organizations that seek to support the work of local organizations through the placement of international volunteers and interns. I think local communities are in the best position to determine their needs and, along with other volunteers, I will be there to help them achieve their goals without being patronizing (which I think can sometimes be a danger with volunteering. I really want to avoid that)

While doing my volunteer work, I will be able to do a lot of research, which I will then write about when I come back. I decided to focus on initiatives taken by local organizations, communities and individuals to deal with problems such as HIV/AIDS, diseases, gender-based violence, reproductive rights, etc.

How do local organization tackle the issue of HIV/AIDS, particularly in terms of prevention and education about the risks and consequences of the virus?
In a post-genocide Rwanda what kind of grassroots movement exist to help survivors as well as women still facing gender-based violence?
What methods and approaches are being used?
What methods have shown the best results?
What is the role of the community and what kind of initiatives have been taken by individuals and groups on the ground to educate others about the risks and consequences of HIV and gender-based violence?
In a post-genocide Rwanda what kind of grassroots movement exist to held survivors and victims of gender-based violence?

Yeah...a lot of questions.

Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions about the program or any other issue. For those of you who do not know much about HIV/AIDS in Africa or some the consequences of the Rwandan genocide, I will post more information on both subjects in the days and weeks to come

Finally, both programs include a fee (placement, accommodation, local staff, food, travel insurance, etc). I'll be using my own savings and will organize a couple of fundraisers but if you're able to support my project financially in any way, it will be greatly appreciated.I know times are little tough but the economic crisis is having repercussions on NGOs and their partners as well and volunteers are starting to lack. So if you want to sponsor me or support me financially in any way, I put a link on the right hand-side.Thank you in advance!

Marie