Rwanda bits and pieces

Motos: I'm addicted to them.They're basically like taxis.Here cabs are expensive so you either get a little bus, a moto or a bike. But motos are just fun.Are the guys always find it hilarious to drive white people around.

Bus: a lot of the drivers decorate their bus: Jay-z, Kanye, Bob Marley, Chris Brown (ew...although I've seen one that said douchebag), T-bag (I don't know who that is but bad choice of name), Eminem...

Football: Africa and Football (or soccer). They just go together.They can't wait for the world cup

Rwandan TV: hilariously bad tv shows.One is called "Banana saga" or story or something like that...very bad acting but almost fun to watch.

Music: Someone called Medhi is extremely famous here.That's all they sing.Not my cup of tea really but when I get back to Canada I'll probably want to listen to him just to remind me of Rwanda.

My Kinyarwadan is getting better and it's always a hit with people here.Hey, at least I'm trying.

Also, I'm establishing a little library here with all kinds of activity books and english books for kids, a few boxes have already been sent from England.But if you have children's books and would like to send some over, let me know. When I get back to Canada, I'll probably try to get as many books as I can and have them sent over.I know a few organizations collect books all the time.We got 13 boxes the other day and the kids (and adults) love it.
Or if you want to sponsor one of centre's children, simply let me know.We established a pdf file with all the information.

Whistle while you work

Things are still great in Rwanda and I can't believe I only have 2 weeks left or so.
I'm very busy with work: sponsoring children, establishing a little library, organizing crafts and painting classes for the kids, teaching children, making baskets with the women and teach them some English, telling them and younger girls about gender-based violence and HIV, helping around at the organization's office...The days are full.I'm also planning on organizing a party/dinner for the kids and the women before I leave. Maybe even a football match if I can find a field.
I visited a woman the other who has HIV and currently has TB.She is extremely thin and stays at the hospital so her kids stay at home all day all by themselves (they can't afford the school fees and the father left). They are extremely poor.I don't think I've actually ever seen such poverty.They basically live in a one bedroom shack. There is only one bed, no kitchen or table.They live next to a polluted pond so it is not the greatest environment for someone who has HIV (malaria and all kinds of diseases).One of the boys now comes here everyday and has lunch here so we keep an eye on him and make sure he gets food.

Working with the women is fantastic: they are single mothers or have HIV (often as a result of the genocide) or come from poor broken homes with abusive husbands so it's really nice to spend time with them.They still remain positive about everything which is quite inspiring.
This weekend, another volunteer and me are planning to visit a memorial in Butare, southern Rwanda. Apparently it's pretty grim as the bodies have been preserved.I also found several genocide/conflict prevention centres around Kigali. They have great libraries and offer free lectures so I go there when I have some free time.

So this is basically what I do during the week.Lots of work but absolutely rewarding.

Rwanda's Education System

Because I teach kids and help them with their homework quite often here, I have had a pretty good taste of the Rwandan educational system. Education in a country like Rwanda seems even more important than anywhere else: good education is probably a good way out of the circle of revenge, intolerance and propaganda, reason instead violence, hopefully a way to escape poverty. But the educational system here is still rather messy. While French used to be the official language a few years ago, the government has now switched to English. For kids under the age of 10 or so this is much easier than for older kids who first grew up in French and Kinyarwandan. Everything is taught in English in schools but most people’s English is limited (even teachers’ sometimes). So, kids barely know basic English (such as the name of colors or English grammar) yet get taught science, math, social studies in English. Most of the children have no idea what the teacher is talking about. So they just copy down notes from the board and learn them by heart then regurgitate them. They don’t know how to explain concepts in their own words and often, because they don’t understand what they are writing, they make a lot of mistakes and so also learn mistakes. Often they have missing notes because the teachers go too fast. There isn’t a lot of interaction between teachers and students, not a lot of place left for imagination or interactive learning. They learn what they are taught and that’s it. Now when you know how well propaganda worked during the genocide because most people failed to question what the government and radio propagandists said, you wish kids would learn a little differently.

Another problem: fees. Every child has to pay school fees, even if they’re poor. This means that a lot of kids cannot afford to go to school. I have already paid a couple of school fees for kids (it's not very expoensiver...well from our point of view) because I just find it unbelievable that certain kids get sent back home because they haven’t paid their fees. A lot of kids here REALLY want to learn. You see it when you sit down with them. They do their best to understand. So...yeah...some changes need to be made in the educational system.

I've tried to upload pictures...failed miserably.The connection is too slow.I'll try from another internet cafe. Sorry about that

Religion and the Rwandan genocide

On Sundays, Rwandans go to church and you hear chants all day. Now, every African nation is very religious and Rwanda is no exception.Yet, it is a little strange for a nation who experienced genocide and if you know the role of religious leaders in the genocide.

Consider this: in Nyarubuye when Tutsis asked the "Hutu Power" mayor how they might escape their killers, he suggested that they hide at the church. They did as told and three days later the mayor and some Hutu militia men came to kill them. In Mugonero, people did the same thing. But this time a pastor actually helped the perpetrators. Eight Tutsi religious representatives hiding in a complex sent a letter to Hutu Seventh-day Adventist Church pastor Ntakirurimana saying: "We wish to inform you that we have heard that tomorrow we will be killed with our families." The pastor replied: "Your problem has already found a solution. God no longer wants you. You must die." The next day, this is exactly what happened. He transported to attackers himself.

Examples abound: When there are problems in Rwanda, people always go to church as they trust that nothing is going to happen there. Many did this but were killed there. Quite a large number of pastors are said to have worked closely with the Hutu militia in organizing the slkaughter of Rwandans. One religious leader even had their own church bulldozed to kill everyone inside.

There are exceptions.2000 Tutsis found refuge in St Famille church in Kigali and were saved by a priest who stood up against the pastor's will.Yet it is disconcerting to see the role of religious leaders in general.Instead of places of refuge and peace, churches became mass killing grounds.
The other day, I went to a memorial in a church and when you get out and see people coming out of another church after service you cannot help but wonder how people can still believe in God and religion.As a non-religious person, it's very hard for me to understand.

Pastor Ntakirurimana fled to Zaire and then to the US where he got a green card and lived with his son and his family for a few years.He was later arrested and became the first clergymen to be convicted for his role during the Rwandan genocide. He was sentenced to 10 years of imprisonment and died shortly after being released. His son Dr. Gerard was also involved.

Safari virgin, nine muzungus on motos and less encouraging news

New week!
But first, the weekend: On Saturday, we woke up very early (3 am) to go to Akagera National Park, on the Tanzanian border.It was absolutely stunning and, as a Safari virgin, I'm really happy with all the animals we managed to see: impalas, crocodiles, giraffes, hippos, warthogs, gazelles, all kinds of birds, zebras, buffalos...The lion and elephant populations shrunk dramatically during the civil war (poaching etc) so it is hard to spot them.The park guide was very helpful and explained that most people who work in Akagera are security personel because poachers still roam around.I think there are only 10 lions left if not less.However, I'm really happy with what I saw.I'll try to post pictures soon.You get an amazing view of Lake Hema, which serves as border between Rwanda and Tanzania.
On Sunday night, all the volunteers had a dinner at this amazing Ethiopian restaurant in the middle of nowehere (it's still Kigali but it weas pretty dark).Basically what you do is order a bunch of things and share.Then you get three giant crepes as well as small ones and a bunch of vegetables (lentils, corn, gabbage,...), sauces (spicy and non-spicy), meat (beef and goat), etc and you just eat with you fingers. It's absolutely delicious and a must-try if you have a good Ethiopian restaurant in your area.Also, getting to the restaurant was quite an adventure.You can use three kinds of transportation here: taxis (mini-buses), cabs (expensive) and motos.Motos are great if you get out of the main roads (plus they are heaps of fun).So imagine 9 muzungus (white people) at the back of 9 motorcycles.I think we provided enough entertainment and dinner conversations for the week.Quite a sight.

Work is going very well.I'm busy all day long so I'm knackered at night but that fine cause I have to wake up around 5.30-6 am anyways.Days start early here because it can get pretty hot during the day (although it is the rainy season).Giving class and doing homework with the kids be challenging: the other day I had to explain Rwandan Pre-history...I know African history but not that well and it's certainly difficult to translate it in Kinyarwandan.

Me and another volunteer found a couple of fair trade shops (craft shops and excellent Rwandan coffee!) around the city and they make quite amazing things (including Christmas stockings made with Rwandan fabrics.I need one of those).Some of these are owned and managed by HIV positive women.The money then goes to struggling families and patients.The HIV epidemic here is feminized since a lot of women were raped during the genocide. The government has done quite a lot to improve access to treatment: free ARV, counseling, testing etc...but access to clinics and treatment in rural areas is still very difficult. And while ARVs are free, bills for other infections and diseases must partly be covered by the patient (10%). Moreover, the stigma is still very much present as well.I know many HIV positive patients not want to reveal their status to their boss for fear of losing their job.

In other news, I heard today that Paul Kagame's political rival was arrested yesterday and later released.Elections will take place in August so this is not a good sign.Despite the fact that Kagame likes to claim that his government is democratic, things like this prove that this is not actually the case.I hope the election will be as democratic as possible.It's difficult to talk politics here...it's a very sensitive subject.I think on the hand, people are grateful for what Kagame did yet I think that they are also aware that there are problems with his leadership.

Daily life and "Single Ladies"

Let me tell you about work here.Well, I'm pretty busy.Most mornings, I give class to children who have lost one of their parents or whose parents are poor therefore making family life not exactly enjoyable.Some have also lost both parents and live with friends and relatives.I try to teach them English...Try...it's hard as some of them above the age of 10 have only recently started school as they afford the school fees (cheap for us but not for them) when they were younger.Now most of them are sponsored by people abroad.
Around 11 am, I help women make these really nice baskets, which they sell at the market.I try to teach them some English, especially numbers and basic maths so they can try and establish a business.They are all single mothers who have lost their husbands (particularly during the genocide) or who suffer from gender-based violence or inequities. I was a little skeptical at first but then yesterday, a woman who started here now has her own business and does really well.It's nice to see it works.I know some women in Gisenyi (near the Congo) make dolls, necklaces etc and I plan to visit them.We also have a nice and comfy counseling room here where people can come talk about their problems (there quite a lot of trauma centers around the city).Claire is really good at that so she sits down with them and tries to help.
Around 2 pm, I entertain some 20 children of all ages.They all need affection and time as their family life is quite hard.They gladly ask for a hug or for you to read them a book.Anything makes them happy as long as you pay attention to them.I usually finish around 5 and walk home (which is always nice as Kigali is beautiful and people always greet you just because you're white...or Muzungu as they say).
I'm also working on HIV and Gender-based violence presentations, which is quite hard cause you have to make it simple for them to understand.It's for older children, so their English is better but nonetheless. You have to make it simple and interesting.

The kids here are hilarious: they know the words to Beyonce's "Single Ladies" but cannot necessarily write very well or make long sentences. They started singing it the other day and just found it hilarious. I think it should be ob youtube.They are obsessed with Shakira, Kanye, Chris Brown and the likes.Even adults. Some even paint their trucks after some singer or band. but don't ask who the Beatles or U2 are...they have no idea.Go figure...oh and they know "Mr Bombastic" and Jay-Z "99 problems"...yes, inappropriate for a child but I doubt they understand.

As I explained in my previous blog, the genocide is very much present. People don't easily talk about it but they will mention it.I was walking with a girl my age the other and she showed me where she had hidden after her parents was killed.People move on but somehow it's forever present as well.There are a lot of NGOs cars and UN buildings (Unicef, World Food Programme, Development,...), you also often see military trucks (elections will take place in August so security is needed). You can sometimes see prisoners (perpetrators of the genocide): they use them to build roads and buildings.You can recognize them by their red (convicted) or pink (not yet convicted) attire.

A few volunteers who were here at the beginning of April went to see President Paul Kagame speak on 7 April (at the stadium) and said it was quite a strange experience.Rwandans are not very private so they openly show their pain and emotions.Apparently, it was not rare to hear people wailing and crying.Claire, who takes care of us here, lost her father and other family members and always tears up when she talks about the genocide but she will gladly explain everything about it and what she has been through. She even has some friends in Montreal so I hope I can meet up with them when I get back. During the week of April 7, nothing but church music can be played and on the 7th, all shops and bars are closed.I think it's quite amazing how far Rwandans have come.Everybody here must now consider themselves as Rwandan, not Hutu or Tutsi.They all work together and live side by side and things seem to work that way. I hope it will continue like this. You never know what might happen, right?

This Saturday, we're going to Akagera, a national park near the Ugandan border.I'm quite excited since I've never been on a Safari!!LIONS!

Muraho!

Finally some news!I have arrived well and loving Rwanda!It is an amazingly beautiful country.Very green and inbdeed the land of a thoudand hills. Kigali itself is beautiful.It's very clean, green and full of flowers as a\every roundabout is carefully decorated.I think the government it's trying it's best to make people happy by making sure their physical environment is peaceful and beautiful.Kigali is not very big and not too complicated to understand...at least in comparison to Accra.

I've already been to a couple of genocide memorials.They are very gri9m and emotional.The one in Kigali is rather big and gives a lot of information about the genocide, its roots and consequences.I also visited one in Nyamata, a church where 10,000 people were killed in one day.The clothes of the victims were placed on the ground and the mass graves at the back of the church can be visited...grim indeed.Skulls and bones are lined up in rows.
April is Genocide month so you can see signs of the victims being remembered.I saw a few ceremonies and it is not rare to see men and women break down in tears.
There are signs of the genocide everywhere: memorials, cemeteries, courts, international commissions,the UN, Red Cross, USAID, loads of NGOs...

This weekend me and some volunteers went to Lake Kivu, which is on the border of the Congo, where the conflict is still raging.We saw refugee camps on the way there as well as a few UN and Red Cross trucks.We walked to the border then went back.Lake Kivu is beautiful so it's strange to look at the other side of the lake and think that war is going on there.It was a fantastic weekend: beautiful hills, birds, etc

Work is very good as well.I do different things every day: helping single mothers make baskets and establish a business, helping children from poor families, teaching about gender-based violence and HIV/AIDS...I'm very busy but really enjoying it

I have a lot more to tell and hope I can post pictures at some point.Internet doesn't seem too slow....