Women and the genocide: "Take your machetes and kill all the Tutsis."

You always hear about how conflict affects women and children. It’s true. Men usually do the fighting while women and children suffer the consequences and bear the brunt of the conflict. When men die, women are left alone to head to household. Those who have been raped bear the mark. But I started to wonder if women had played a role during the genocide. I have never seen a picture of a woman holding a machete or standing next to bodies. I had never really heard of a woman standing on trial for genocide. Their murderous role has been put aside, often leading to impunity. Those who committed crimes exploited the image of innocence spread by the world. Yes, many women suffer during conflict, but some also play a role in the continuation of conflict.
I went to the genocide prevention centre and found some literature on the role of women during the genocide. Murderous campaigns against the Tutsis started in the early 1960s and women played an increasingly violent role. Many didn’t need encouragement (although some were indeed threatened, beaten and forced to kill). Some women were among the leaders. They established lists of Tutsis, they participated in attacks, incited hatred and genocide, denounced neighbors and even husbands, killed their husbands and kids, some even encouraged rape. They were teachers, school girls, nurses, doctors, nuns, local representatives, politicians, journalists (“The graves are not yet full. Fill them up” said one RTLM radio journalist). Local representatives and ministers played an active role: Rose Karushara distributed weapons and decided over life and death. Doctors and nurses refused to treat patients. Two ministers, including the Minister of family and Women’s Rights, heavily participated in the organization of the killing, including the elimination of political opponents. They personally kept an eye on some operations. Why did they do it? Extremism, power, money…
Some are in prison now. I have seen a few. Many fled to Tanzania, Congo, etc. Some still live in Kigali even.

First pictures...finally

Work






Akagera National Park

Tanzania on the other side of the lake



Lake Kivu, on the Rwanda/Congo border: Mountains, volcanoes, birds and the UN





Nyamata memorial. Clothing on the floor (church)


Mass gravesMore soon!

Rwanda bits and pieces

Motos: I'm addicted to them.They're basically like taxis.Here cabs are expensive so you either get a little bus, a moto or a bike. But motos are just fun.Are the guys always find it hilarious to drive white people around.

Bus: a lot of the drivers decorate their bus: Jay-z, Kanye, Bob Marley, Chris Brown (ew...although I've seen one that said douchebag), T-bag (I don't know who that is but bad choice of name), Eminem...

Football: Africa and Football (or soccer). They just go together.They can't wait for the world cup

Rwandan TV: hilariously bad tv shows.One is called "Banana saga" or story or something like that...very bad acting but almost fun to watch.

Music: Someone called Medhi is extremely famous here.That's all they sing.Not my cup of tea really but when I get back to Canada I'll probably want to listen to him just to remind me of Rwanda.

My Kinyarwadan is getting better and it's always a hit with people here.Hey, at least I'm trying.

Also, I'm establishing a little library here with all kinds of activity books and english books for kids, a few boxes have already been sent from England.But if you have children's books and would like to send some over, let me know. When I get back to Canada, I'll probably try to get as many books as I can and have them sent over.I know a few organizations collect books all the time.We got 13 boxes the other day and the kids (and adults) love it.
Or if you want to sponsor one of centre's children, simply let me know.We established a pdf file with all the information.

Whistle while you work

Things are still great in Rwanda and I can't believe I only have 2 weeks left or so.
I'm very busy with work: sponsoring children, establishing a little library, organizing crafts and painting classes for the kids, teaching children, making baskets with the women and teach them some English, telling them and younger girls about gender-based violence and HIV, helping around at the organization's office...The days are full.I'm also planning on organizing a party/dinner for the kids and the women before I leave. Maybe even a football match if I can find a field.
I visited a woman the other who has HIV and currently has TB.She is extremely thin and stays at the hospital so her kids stay at home all day all by themselves (they can't afford the school fees and the father left). They are extremely poor.I don't think I've actually ever seen such poverty.They basically live in a one bedroom shack. There is only one bed, no kitchen or table.They live next to a polluted pond so it is not the greatest environment for someone who has HIV (malaria and all kinds of diseases).One of the boys now comes here everyday and has lunch here so we keep an eye on him and make sure he gets food.

Working with the women is fantastic: they are single mothers or have HIV (often as a result of the genocide) or come from poor broken homes with abusive husbands so it's really nice to spend time with them.They still remain positive about everything which is quite inspiring.
This weekend, another volunteer and me are planning to visit a memorial in Butare, southern Rwanda. Apparently it's pretty grim as the bodies have been preserved.I also found several genocide/conflict prevention centres around Kigali. They have great libraries and offer free lectures so I go there when I have some free time.

So this is basically what I do during the week.Lots of work but absolutely rewarding.

Rwanda's Education System

Because I teach kids and help them with their homework quite often here, I have had a pretty good taste of the Rwandan educational system. Education in a country like Rwanda seems even more important than anywhere else: good education is probably a good way out of the circle of revenge, intolerance and propaganda, reason instead violence, hopefully a way to escape poverty. But the educational system here is still rather messy. While French used to be the official language a few years ago, the government has now switched to English. For kids under the age of 10 or so this is much easier than for older kids who first grew up in French and Kinyarwandan. Everything is taught in English in schools but most people’s English is limited (even teachers’ sometimes). So, kids barely know basic English (such as the name of colors or English grammar) yet get taught science, math, social studies in English. Most of the children have no idea what the teacher is talking about. So they just copy down notes from the board and learn them by heart then regurgitate them. They don’t know how to explain concepts in their own words and often, because they don’t understand what they are writing, they make a lot of mistakes and so also learn mistakes. Often they have missing notes because the teachers go too fast. There isn’t a lot of interaction between teachers and students, not a lot of place left for imagination or interactive learning. They learn what they are taught and that’s it. Now when you know how well propaganda worked during the genocide because most people failed to question what the government and radio propagandists said, you wish kids would learn a little differently.

Another problem: fees. Every child has to pay school fees, even if they’re poor. This means that a lot of kids cannot afford to go to school. I have already paid a couple of school fees for kids (it's not very expoensiver...well from our point of view) because I just find it unbelievable that certain kids get sent back home because they haven’t paid their fees. A lot of kids here REALLY want to learn. You see it when you sit down with them. They do their best to understand. So...yeah...some changes need to be made in the educational system.

I've tried to upload pictures...failed miserably.The connection is too slow.I'll try from another internet cafe. Sorry about that

Religion and the Rwandan genocide

On Sundays, Rwandans go to church and you hear chants all day. Now, every African nation is very religious and Rwanda is no exception.Yet, it is a little strange for a nation who experienced genocide and if you know the role of religious leaders in the genocide.

Consider this: in Nyarubuye when Tutsis asked the "Hutu Power" mayor how they might escape their killers, he suggested that they hide at the church. They did as told and three days later the mayor and some Hutu militia men came to kill them. In Mugonero, people did the same thing. But this time a pastor actually helped the perpetrators. Eight Tutsi religious representatives hiding in a complex sent a letter to Hutu Seventh-day Adventist Church pastor Ntakirurimana saying: "We wish to inform you that we have heard that tomorrow we will be killed with our families." The pastor replied: "Your problem has already found a solution. God no longer wants you. You must die." The next day, this is exactly what happened. He transported to attackers himself.

Examples abound: When there are problems in Rwanda, people always go to church as they trust that nothing is going to happen there. Many did this but were killed there. Quite a large number of pastors are said to have worked closely with the Hutu militia in organizing the slkaughter of Rwandans. One religious leader even had their own church bulldozed to kill everyone inside.

There are exceptions.2000 Tutsis found refuge in St Famille church in Kigali and were saved by a priest who stood up against the pastor's will.Yet it is disconcerting to see the role of religious leaders in general.Instead of places of refuge and peace, churches became mass killing grounds.
The other day, I went to a memorial in a church and when you get out and see people coming out of another church after service you cannot help but wonder how people can still believe in God and religion.As a non-religious person, it's very hard for me to understand.

Pastor Ntakirurimana fled to Zaire and then to the US where he got a green card and lived with his son and his family for a few years.He was later arrested and became the first clergymen to be convicted for his role during the Rwandan genocide. He was sentenced to 10 years of imprisonment and died shortly after being released. His son Dr. Gerard was also involved.

Safari virgin, nine muzungus on motos and less encouraging news

New week!
But first, the weekend: On Saturday, we woke up very early (3 am) to go to Akagera National Park, on the Tanzanian border.It was absolutely stunning and, as a Safari virgin, I'm really happy with all the animals we managed to see: impalas, crocodiles, giraffes, hippos, warthogs, gazelles, all kinds of birds, zebras, buffalos...The lion and elephant populations shrunk dramatically during the civil war (poaching etc) so it is hard to spot them.The park guide was very helpful and explained that most people who work in Akagera are security personel because poachers still roam around.I think there are only 10 lions left if not less.However, I'm really happy with what I saw.I'll try to post pictures soon.You get an amazing view of Lake Hema, which serves as border between Rwanda and Tanzania.
On Sunday night, all the volunteers had a dinner at this amazing Ethiopian restaurant in the middle of nowehere (it's still Kigali but it weas pretty dark).Basically what you do is order a bunch of things and share.Then you get three giant crepes as well as small ones and a bunch of vegetables (lentils, corn, gabbage,...), sauces (spicy and non-spicy), meat (beef and goat), etc and you just eat with you fingers. It's absolutely delicious and a must-try if you have a good Ethiopian restaurant in your area.Also, getting to the restaurant was quite an adventure.You can use three kinds of transportation here: taxis (mini-buses), cabs (expensive) and motos.Motos are great if you get out of the main roads (plus they are heaps of fun).So imagine 9 muzungus (white people) at the back of 9 motorcycles.I think we provided enough entertainment and dinner conversations for the week.Quite a sight.

Work is going very well.I'm busy all day long so I'm knackered at night but that fine cause I have to wake up around 5.30-6 am anyways.Days start early here because it can get pretty hot during the day (although it is the rainy season).Giving class and doing homework with the kids be challenging: the other day I had to explain Rwandan Pre-history...I know African history but not that well and it's certainly difficult to translate it in Kinyarwandan.

Me and another volunteer found a couple of fair trade shops (craft shops and excellent Rwandan coffee!) around the city and they make quite amazing things (including Christmas stockings made with Rwandan fabrics.I need one of those).Some of these are owned and managed by HIV positive women.The money then goes to struggling families and patients.The HIV epidemic here is feminized since a lot of women were raped during the genocide. The government has done quite a lot to improve access to treatment: free ARV, counseling, testing etc...but access to clinics and treatment in rural areas is still very difficult. And while ARVs are free, bills for other infections and diseases must partly be covered by the patient (10%). Moreover, the stigma is still very much present as well.I know many HIV positive patients not want to reveal their status to their boss for fear of losing their job.

In other news, I heard today that Paul Kagame's political rival was arrested yesterday and later released.Elections will take place in August so this is not a good sign.Despite the fact that Kagame likes to claim that his government is democratic, things like this prove that this is not actually the case.I hope the election will be as democratic as possible.It's difficult to talk politics here...it's a very sensitive subject.I think on the hand, people are grateful for what Kagame did yet I think that they are also aware that there are problems with his leadership.