Liberian Refugee Camp

The two Liberian civil wars forced a lot of people to flee their country. Many Liberian refugees can be found in Ghana, not far away from Accra.The Buduburam refugee camp is huge and has a population of approximately 40,000 people.Because some refugees have been there for almost 30 years, actual small shacks have been built, so people don't live in tents. There is a school and a small football field.
In the 1980s, Liberia was headed by Samuel K. Doe. The first Liberian war started in 1989, when arbitrary rule (Doe suspended the constitution and formed an authoritarian regime called People's Redemption Council.) and economic collapse culminated in a rebellion against Doe. National Patriotic Front of Liberia militia, led by Charles Taylor's, overran much of the countryside and entered the capital in 1990. Doe was executed, leading to a civil war. The rebels split into several groups and started fighting each other. A peace treaty was signed in 1995 and Taylor was elected president. However, a second civil war started in 1999 when renewed anti-government fighting started in the north. In 2003, Taylor eventually stepped down.

UN peacekeepers moved into Liberia in 2003 to help implement a peace deal and make the country secure both for civilians and for a transitional government. However, the years of civil war left the country in ruin.
Taylor has been indicted for crimes against humanity in Sierra Leone, where he allegedly aided rebels who murdered civilians.

Around 250,000 people were killed and many thousands more fled. As of 2004, at least 200,000 Liberian refugees were living in surrounding countries. An estimated 15,000 children fought in Liberia's civil war.
In Ghana, many refugees cannot find work so many opened small businesses in the camp. But a lot of them are unemployed. They get help from relatives living abroad, including the US and Canada. Most Ghanaians have accepted the Liberian community but finding a job is difficult nonetheless. Some NGOs also teach the refugees new skills and organize workshops in an attempt to improve people's chances. Some kids can also get scholarships.
As I already told you, some of the refugees told me their stories. A midwife at the Maternity Clinic saw her husband being killed and her son, then a toddler, was heavily burnt when a soldier threw boiling water on him. Others had to leave parents behind and now live in the camp without knowing if their relatives are still alive. Some of them would like to return home but with Liberia's economy in ruin they're almost better off here. Some even tried to go back but were forced to return to Ghana when they realized that life in Liberia was too difficult. Some refugees were victims of renewed violence once they returned to Liberia. At the camp offers some kind of security. More over, some got married and have kids in Ghana.

UNHCR headquarters and cars:

HIV/AIDS is quite an important problem in the camp. Conflict always renders refugees more vulnerable to HIV transmission. The UN High Commission for Refugees, which set up the camp in 1989, is heavily present. Confidential testing is available on the ground and is heavily encouraged. There are counselors on the ground, including Liberian counselors. However, stigma is fierce so counselors try to raise awareness in schools and churches. One of the main problems is that HIV tests are expensive and cannot be done in the settlement. Moreover, running water and electricity are not available, even at the settlement clinics. Poor sanitation, malaria, malnutrition only make the situation worse.

Workplaces

The Malnutrition war and Rehabilitation Center at the Children's Hospital:

Here are "after/before" pictures that the staff put up on the wall. The "before" pictures are pretty sad but then you see them a few weeks later and it's very hopeful. Only kids with HIV have no chances of getting better.
I saw this little girl while I was there and now she is tall and chubby. It's great to see.

Here they try to tell parents about a child's nutritional needs: soja beans, fish, vegetables etc. They make sure the parents can afford it.

Here is the kitchen at the Rehab center where the nurses supervise mothers
Mayme and her mother. A few weeks ago she was still pretty skinny buth the rehabilitation center is amazing. Currently, they staff is trying to get a car so they can pick up young patients and their parents who cannot afford transport to the hospital
















Margo Maternity Home and Clinic, a rural hospital in Krodua. Again poverty was very visible as mothers were saddened at the idea of having another child when they already had three or more. Self-induced abortions were not rare.
This is the OP, where they first admit patients. For example, pregnancy tests are taken outside then patients go to the consulting room. Chickens and cats roam around. There is also a labor room and a laboratory where blood tests are taken.















The nurses

Connie's Clinic and Maternity Home. A lot of anaemia cases, leading to high maternal death rates. But the head midwife there was amazing. She was really trying to convince mothers to get tested for HIV. She also tried to explain to women that family planning is not dangerous. She tries to tell them about the consequences of big families when money is scarce.



Latifah



























Labor room. Very basic.






























Me and the staff















Trying to reduce child mortality levels by encouraging immunisation. You can also see family planning and safe-sex posters.

First pictures: the green house and the kids (well some of them)

We named it the Green House. It was so green you could see it from far away















The showers and bathrooms. I told you there was no running water. But bucket showers are fun. Plus it's so hot. Taking a shower outside it's actually a nice change...at least for a few weeks. It seems basic but for most people here it's pretty luxurious

The kitchen, on the right.











Here are some of the kids who lived there or came to visit us all the time so we could play. We spent hours every night playing with them. When you spend the day at the hospitals, it's nice to see healthy kids when you get back home. They were really great great kids. They have no tv or video games so they spend the day outside inventing games. They're so funny.

The girls in their school uniforms. They love when you run after them. It just makes them laugh. Easy.

Simple games. They talked and talked and talked.











Keizia discovered my ipod.The only they wanted to listen to Michael Jackson...I tried Radiohead but they didn't like that...They know Rihanna but not the Beatles.Someone















Going to church: Rachel, Keizia and Obert. Yes, the suit is a little too big.

Priscilla laughs like a squirrel












Some of the orphans from the orphanage next door would come over to play as well. We bought a football so they would play all the time

Back Home...

I'm back from Ghana.I'm absolutely exhausted but pictures will follow soon.It's strange to be back.Some things seem trivial now, life seems too materialistic here.
Here nobody says hello on the street, everything is quite and structured, people are individualistic...it's a little puzzling at first.
I'm sure it will be okay in a few days though and I'll get back to my nice little Western life.
Also, when I left Ghana, there were 35C...here it's -20C.Haha.I have to get used to it.

Ghanaian crazes

For my last blog from Ghana I wanted to talk about some things Ghanaians are crazy about

Phones: If you come here, you're first taken aback by the poverty. People live in small shacks or small two bedroom homes. Yet EVERYBODY has a phone. At least everybody over the age of 15.Phones can be bought everywhere. Here you just buy a chip put it in the phone then you buy minutes. Those little stands are absolutely everywhere. In cities at least 2 meters. People on the road sell them. Everybody wants your phone number. It’s so strange in a way. Money spent on phones could be used for something else, especially food and school.

Facebook: Very few people have computers at home but they all know facebook. Whenever you go to an internet café you can be sure that half of the room will be on facebook. Because I’m a foreigner they obviously want to add me as their friend...

Football: The African Football (or Soccer for the American readers here) Cup is currently taking place. Ghana actually did pretty well. Better than in previous years so Ghanaians were very excited and proud. Most people don’t own a TV so people go to each others houses or to the bar. They watch TV from the outside so every time Ghana would score a goal you would hear a roar. Cars honking, people running in the streets. Men, women, kids…They are very proud of their team. Yesterday, Ghana arrived pretty far and was playing against Egypt. A lot of Ghanaians were sporting Ghana t-shirts, headbands and flags. It’s great to see. Life is not easy here. Not many people are proud of their politicians or current situation. They are proud of the people who fought for independence, are proud to have gained independence before other African nations but these things are difficult so football makes them happy.

Obama: Obama is still in his honeymoon period here. You can find the usual Obama t-shirts, posters, paintings etc but I’ve seen Obama jeans, Obama schools, Obama clocks, and everybody here loves the Obama cookies (when I get back, I’ll show you what they look like). Here, like for many Black people in the US, Obama represents hope. If one Black man can become president of the United States then no kid here can say things are impossible or that he can't fulfill his dreams. Obama like Mandela are symbols of hope for many kids.Even a 4 year old knows who he is.

Religion: Religion is always present. Church takes place in the open or inside but with all windows open. There are church services every day, especially at night during the week and then on Sunday mornings. Priests hop onto tro-tros and buses to pray for us or have a little service. Then everybody prays that we arrive to our destination alive (seeing how people drive here, I understand them)

Also, music is central in Ghana. But only rnb, gospel and hip hop. They know Rihanna and Jay-Z but have no clue who the Beatles are. Go figure.

On Ghanaian women

Today was my last work day.I said goodbye to everyone and went around the hospitals and clinic I worked at during the past few weeks.It has been such a fantastic experience.I learned more in one month than in a few months of school.Coming here was the best thing I could do.

During the past few weeks I observed how life works here.Working in hospitals and maternity clinic and therefore being surrounded by women made me realize how much they work here.Much more than most men.They are basically responsible for everything: children, food, housework, work, taking care of the husband, cooking.....They often wake up around 4.30 or 5 am and don't go to bed until late.They are everywhere: at the market, on the road selling products or carrying water and other loads.Meanwhile most men can be seen sitting under a tree sleeping, hanging around or playing cards.Not all of them but many.
Women (and even some men) here are very much aware of the situation.Every time you talk to them they will tell you men are lazy.Women carry all the burden but men control the money.A pregnant woman at the clinic has anaemia and a very high blood pressure as a result of all the pressure put on her everyday as well as lack of proper food.In order to know her blood type lab tests must be made.Yet the husband won't give her money although.He spends money on baby clothe for the future child but won't make sure his wife or the baby are alright.
Gender-violence is also exists.Poverty leads several men to abuse their wives.Many men do not have jobs while women can more easily be traders at the market.Because men are desperate for money and job they turn against women.
Several husbands also work far away and only come back on the weekends.Sometimes this means that some of them also have a second family or girlfriend at their work place...which can increase the risk of HIV.
Not all men are like that here, but women do suffer a lot.The health risks are numerous.Today I saw a list of all the major cases women's clinics receive: besides minor diseases anemia, typhoid, abdominal pains, STDs, HIV and respiratory problems are the most common.Teenage pregnancy are also common as young women whose parents are poor find a boyfriend who will take of her.But many of the men are exactly looking for a wife yet and certainly do not want a child.
I heard so many stories....Women here are very much aware of the rights they have but do not enjoy.I admire them very much.

In a happier subject, his weekend I'm going to the Shai Hills and Aburi, in the Central Region.Monday: time to pack as I'm leaving on Tuesday morning....

The trip to Cape Coast was amazing.It's nice to get out of the city.On Saturday we went to the rain forest.We walked on a canopy walk through the trees.Kind of scary. Then we went to beach where we had a bonfire and the next visited Cape Coast castle, which is where all the slaves were sent from.Obama made a speech here when he visited Ghana last year. There are posters of him and Ghanaian President Atta Mills all around the city.They love him over here.

This week I'll be visiting different hospitals and health projects. Yesterday and today I worked at a maternity and women's clinic which receives a lot of malaria, anaemia and HIV cases.They also try to push family planning, which Ghanaians are often very suspicious of.They believe it will harm them.Yet having 34 or more children often means that not all of them will receive education or they won't get enough food.

It's a small rural clinic yet they are very good at what they do and they have very straightforward views on what is good for the local community and for families.HIV tests can be done on the ground and HIV pre- and post- counseling is available as well.HIV-positive patients are then referred to bigger hospitals in Accra where they can get proper treatment.The midwives here try to encourage women to take the HIV test to make sure the child is going to be healthy.The head nurse also tries to go around the community to tell them about HIV risks as well as the need for family planning.She really tries her best because she knows the consequences.

As I already told you last week, working in hospitals is one of the best and saddest way to experience the poverty here in Ghana.yesterday I young pregnant women was rushed to the hospital with anaemia.She needs blood in order for her and the baby to be healthy yet she can't afford to buy blood.Maternal deaths can be frequent here so I hope someone will find a solution.
The clinic also often experiences power cuts.When this happens at night, they have to work by candlelight or car is driven is front of the window so the headlights can be used.It sounds pretty crazy but it's all they have right now.Everybody here tells me that poverty is getting worse.Doctors experience it every day as patience cannot pay for treatment.What also sometimes happens is that pregnant women cannot afford transport to the clinic.However, the community here has organized a taxi system that brings pregnant women to the hospitals.